Beginner looking for some advice.

[lordmango]

Cheers, guys!

I've been looking into a couple of still designs for a while, and there's so much cool stuff out there that appeals to my screaming eyes all the time.
I've had the so-called Spiral-Still(click here for info) before and was pretty happy with it, only negative thing was the speed.
Since the still was air-cooled, I could only take out at about 150ml/h, which is way too long for a 25 litre 16% sugar-wash.
I've been looking on the CM, LM and VM designs, and apparently the VM is the way to go for Neutrals. Both the LM and CM can apparently be used for flavored product, but also for neutrals if they're run slow enough.
I must admit the VM is the most appealing one, since I'm mostly looking to make some neutrals, but it's way out of my league when it comes to building.

Just about every still I've looked up is out of my league when it comes to building, since I've got pretty much 0 skills with either welding or soldering.

I've had in mind for a while to build myself a still out of compression-fittings for a while, since they're made for pressurized pipes and is pretty simple to use.

The only problem for me is that over here in Norway, we only got up to 22mm of fittings.
The thing I've had in mind for a while is to make myself a 22mm "mini-VM", and it's most likely going to run a bit faster than the spiral-still if this calculator is somewhat close to correct.

Only problem for me is the reflux-condenser at the top. in the 1 1/2'' columns and up, most guys use a couble helix coil or something close.
I will not be able to shove a coil condenser down the 22mm pipe at all.

Anyone got an ide of how I can make a reflux-condenser? I want to try using compression-fittings all the way, and rather not even hear anything about soldering at all :text-lol:

Cheers, LordMango.

[Kimbo]

hi Lordmango,
i recon with a 22mm column you could use a single helix wound around the outside of the column, you can still use compression fittings too ;-)

Oh! and steer well clear of that spiral still, a heating element in a plastic bucket is not a good idea :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[lordmango]

Cooling coil outside the 22mm pipe you say.
How long does it have to be to knock down 600W do you think?
I was having the idea of using a liebig-arm like the N.T.H. Column (info here), at maybe 1 meter long with 70-80cm of 22mm outside 12mm pipe.
The only problem I've got with this thing is the the reflux. if my thinking is correct, most of it will end up following the walls downwards the column, and the reflux won't be as good as with a centering ring inside.

EDIT: After using a calculator, I've figured out that 370W is more than enough.
When using 2KW on a 2'' column, you'll get a vapor-speed at somewhere around 29,15 inches/sec.
On a 22mm column (0.86''), 370W ends up at the same vapor-speed.
At 1/1 reflux ratio, I'll get around 135ml every 15 mins.
At 1/4 reflux ratio, I'll get about 55ml every 15mins.

That's what the calculator says atleast :text-lol:

[Kimbo]

That design would work, but its going to require some welding.

as for the external helix, make it a 'slip on' so you can adjust the height, add too or remove completely,
IMHO, there are better designs around and if copper is hard to get, maybe try stainless steel and keep your ears open for someone that can weld and likes a drink. :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[lordmango]

Might be easier for me to make someone else weld a still for me, but I kinda like the idea of having made the still all by myself.
What part of it do you think will require welding? Don't quite get where you mean it should get welded.

[Kimbo]

what i meant was if you use a liebig, they need to be welded,
infact, if you have a still made from copper or S/S,there will be some sort of welding involved,
it may pay to do a part time course on braising ;-)

[lordmango]

Hey!
Sorry for not replying in a while.

Kimbo, when you say welding is necessary, I still quite don't get where I need any welding at all.

I've had this idea about using compression-fittings for everything for quite a long time.

In every compression-fitting, there's a nut, body and a ring that's pressed onto the pipes.
Inside the body, there's a "wall" that's big enough to stop the pipes from going all the way through.
What I've been thinking of is: Since it's the ring and the nut itself that makes the seal, why not use a drill and drill away that wall inside so I can shove the tube all the way through.
If I do this, I've been thinking of using 2 compression-fittings of 12mm and 2 of 22mm.
I drill away the walls on the 12mm ones, add a T-fitting on them and screw in the 22mm fittings.

I'm not quite sure this will work, but I think it's worth a try.
The wall inside might be helping to create a complete seal, but there's not a single gasket inside, so I don't see why there should be a problem if I drill them away.


As for the reflux-condenser, I've been wondering about making it the same way as the outtake-condenser.
Only difference is that the outtake-condenser will be vertical, and the reflux-condenser will be be set at an angle of about 30 degrees upwards.

This picture kinda shows the "basics" of the design I'm thinking of:



Anything about my thinking that's totally off, or do you think it can work?

Cheers, LordMango.

[Kimbo]

Hi Lordmango,
I'm not a full bottle on compression fittings, maybe post a pic so we can see.
also, if you are using these fittings, haw will you achieve the 30 deg angle your after? Which needs to be downward i think ;-)
keep us posted :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[lordmango]

For the angles, I was thinking of using a tee at the top of the column.
On the outtake-side, I'll attach a ballvalve, and set in a 90-degree angle there.
On the condenser-part, I was thinking of screwing in a 90-degree angle which I screw in as far as possible, and then move it so I can attach some steel wire from the roof, to hold the arm in place.

As for the compression-fitting part, here's a picture of what's going on inside one:


You can't see it in this picture, but at the end of the pipe, it's pressed against a "wall" which stops it from going all the way through,
The "wall" has nothing to do with the sealing (from what I can tell), and there shouldn't be any problem drilling it away.

[Kimbo]

I recon undue stress on a elbow, tee or compression fitting will leak,
IMHO solid joins are far better than mechanical joins ;-)