CFW - Bubble Plate and Filtering

[Justillit]

Hello All,

I have 60 Litres of CFW to distill in my new still.
This was the CFW in the tried and true section with some malt added, it has fermented out well and truly as it has been sitting over 11 weeks due to work commitments. It looks and smells / tastes fine and is super clear.

This is the still I got give for xmas.
https://www.brewerschoice.net.au/60l-st ... er-station

I have 2 questions.

What temp should I run the boiler and condensers at, and should I filter the spirit?
I have never done a spirit run and cuts but I am ready.
I have mastered the T500 for Neutral with lots of copper mods, done 30 odd runs of it so are ready for next step.
Also done several molasses wash runs with the still spirits Alembic Dome Head, that's kind of a bitch to run TBH.

Any tips appreciated!

Cheers all.

JustStillit

[BigRig]

You dont run a boiler by temperature, the wash will boil at its own temperature and will change throughout the run as the alc is diminshed. You also don't measure the water temperature of the condensor like you did with the t500. On those type boilers i would set the boiler temp to 105c.

You really need a power controller to run that thing properly so you can adjust power accordingly. The more power input the more vigorous the boil, the more vigorous the boil the more likely you are to get smearing.

Proper cuts with a bubbler and you won't need to filter.

[The Stig]

Thanks Ben , I’m so over telling people you can’t run a still by temp ^:)^

[Justillit]

You dont run a boiler by temperature, the wash will boil at its own temperature and will change throughout the run as the alc is diminshed. You also don't measure the water temperature of the condensor like you did with the t500. On those type boilers i would set the boiler temp to 105c.

You really need a power controller to run that thing properly so you can adjust power accordingly. The more power input the more vigorous the boil, the more vigorous the boil the more likely you are to get smearing.

Proper cuts with a bubbler and you won't need to filter.

Thanks Big Rig, so have I understood,

Thermometer on the Boiler lid should be around 105c, then on the dephlegmator I will look for 85-97c and then 63-68 for shot gun?

Sorry for dumb question.

Dont ask, dont learn.

Better to ask and be assumed a fool for 1 hour or never ask and be proven a fool forever!

Thank you again!

[Justillit]

Thanks Ben , I’m so over telling people you can’t run a still by temp ^:)^

Sorry mate didnt mean to be a pest, just trying to learn.

Have a great weekend

[BigRig]

You dont run a boiler by temperature, the wash will boil at its own temperature and will change throughout the run as the alc is diminshed. You also don't measure the water temperature of the condensor like you did with the t500. On those type boilers i would set the boiler temp to 105c.

You really need a power controller to run that thing properly so you can adjust power accordingly. The more power input the more vigorous the boil, the more vigorous the boil the more likely you are to get smearing.

Proper cuts with a bubbler and you won't need to filter.

Thanks Big Rig, so have I understood,

Thermometer on the Boiler lid should be around 105c, then on the dephlegmator I will look for 85-97c and then 63-68 for shot gun?

Sorry for dumb question.

Dont ask, dont learn.

Better to ask and be assumed a fool for 1 hour or never ask and be proven a fool forever!

Thank you again!

On the boiler, the black dial down the bottom, Is that a thermostat? What i am saying is put it to an unachievable temp like 105c so it will never cycle on/off, you want a constant rolling boil not a stop/start boil.

If u get a power controller you can have the rolling boil and adjust the intensity as needed.

Ignore all other thermometers as they will only confuse you.

I am by no means calling you dumb, but simplified running a bubbler is heating the boiler with the defleg on full, when the plates load up with liquid slowly close the defleg until you get slow drips. Collect the drips for your fores cut and discard, close the defleg tap a little more until you get a slow steady stream, collect in 200ml cuts and let them air overnight before diluting, tasting and testing your product.

You do it all without looking at the temps. Every wash is different so you cannot determine what the boiling point will be, it will just be what it will be.

[BigRig]

This video might also help with running a bubbler too viewtopic.php?f=36&t=12181&hilit=Woodduck

[Justillit]

This video might also help with running a bubbler too viewtopic.php?f=36&t=12181&hilit=Woodduck

Appreciated.

[Justillit]

You dont run a boiler by temperature, the wash will boil at its own temperature and will change throughout the run as the alc is diminshed. You also don't measure the water temperature of the condensor like you did with the t500. On those type boilers i would set the boiler temp to 105c.

You really need a power controller to run that thing properly so you can adjust power accordingly. The more power input the more vigorous the boil, the more vigorous the boil the more likely you are to get smearing.

Proper cuts with a bubbler and you won't need to filter.

Thanks Big Rig, so have I understood,

Thermometer on the Boiler lid should be around 105c, then on the dephlegmator I will look for 85-97c and then 63-68 for shot gun?

Sorry for dumb question.

Dont ask, dont learn.

Better to ask and be assumed a fool for 1 hour or never ask and be proven a fool forever!

Thank you again!

On the boiler, the black dial down the bottom, Is that a thermostat? What i am saying is put it to an unachievable temp like 105c so it will never cycle on/off, you want a constant rolling boil not a stop/start boil.

If u get a power controller you can have the rolling boil and adjust the intensity as needed.

Ignore all other thermometers as they will only confuse you.

I am by no means calling you dumb, but simplified running a bubbler is heating the boiler with the defleg on full, when the plates load up with liquid slowly close the defleg until you get slow drips. Collect the drips for your fores cut and discard, close the defleg tap a little more until you get a slow steady stream, collect in 200ml cuts and let them air overnight before diluting, tasting and testing your product.

You do it all without looking at the temps. Every wash is different so you cannot determine what the boiling point will be, it will just be what it will be.

Yep that's right it has 2 elements, controlled by 2 thermos, that makes sense. Hey thanks for helping out. Ill get a power controller
Cheers

[The Stig]

The 5 Star Controller will NOT work.
That rig states a total of 2800w (15amp) but then they say 10amp , the controllers are only good for 2400w and that’s the top end of 10amp so no idea what they are talking about.

[Wellsy]

Would getting the temp up without the controller, then switching back to one element going through the controller and the other switched off be an option to get around the high power usage melting things ?

Apologies not as I am not sure if I am helping or hindering here :laughing-rolling:

[The Stig]

Still becomes an issue , same as the 65L digiboil , the electronics dont play nice when connected to a controller unless modified to separate the power cords to each element and bypassing the electronics .
Loads of messing about .
And, I don’t get how they can advertise a non 10amp product as 10amp ???
Surely if you plugged this into a standard 10am circuit it would blow the safety switch ??
I’m no electrician but something doesn’t seem right

[Wellsy]

Thanks for clarifying Stig, as an electrician I make a good bookkeeper as I know only enough to not touch the wires :laughing-rolling:

[Justillit]

Still becomes an issue , same as the 65L digiboil , the electronics dont play nice when connected to a controller unless modified to separate the power cords to each element and bypassing the electronics .
Loads of messing about .
And, I don’t get how they can advertise a non 10amp product as 10amp ???
Surely if you plugged this into a standard 10am circuit it would blow the safety switch ??
I’m no electrician but something doesn’t seem right

This is the instructions.
I emailed the supplier and the send a PDF which I uploaded to freelancer and paid couple of beers to have it interpreted.

2) Learn about the boiler control

This boiler was designed for 1800W heating rate (where we can main
heating element) plus 1000W additional heating rate with adjustable power
output and thermostat for main 1800W heating element. Please pay
attention that the switch on boiler is the switch for additional 1000W heat
element, not main power.

2.1 Power Adjustable zone
Zone 1. Standard Rate – Maximum output of 1800W
Zone 2. Slow cooking – Medium heating rate with better quality
Zone 3. Keep Warm – Slow heating, good for fermentation purpose

2.2 Thermostat
In most of case for distillation you don’t need that function, simply put
to maximum temperature of 120C. Can be use it for other purpose

2.3 Additional heating
Use it when pre-heating. To avoid power cut, better set the power
adjust knob in zone 2 before you switch on, and turn it off when start
distillation.

:techie-typing:

[The Stig]

Still a max of 2800w and that’s 15 amp
It’s all good them saying turn one on and the other off but the minute somebody blows their house up guess who’s got no insurance because of illegal activities

[chipboy]

Woa Stig, 15A is 3600W mate. If the limit is 2800W then I strongly recommend a 10A circuit 2400W.

[The Stig]

I was under the assumption that anything over 2400 was higher than what a 10amp circuit could handle

[chipboy]

You are correct, we are talking similarly.

[howard]

i think things like plug/plug leads/power boards will get a bit a 'bit' warm (bad connections will probably melt) unless you follow their advice for "Additional Heating".
TBH it should be classed as a 15A, my maffs says 2800w is about 11.67A on 240v?
the extra 1000w is a good idea to decrease warm up times though.
personally, i would inspect the power lead to see if it was ok for 15A (change it if necessary), change the plug to 15A and use it on a 15A circuit.
alternatively, forget about using the 1000w boost altogether and it should be ok.
i went to the Hooloo site but couldn't see that particular boiler.........
that switch marked with 3/2/1 positions, has that got set positions or is it incremental?
ie is it a built-in power controller or 3 x predetermined power settings.