Aussiedistiller, Home Distilling, Moonshine, Home Brew

Hi guys.
Ideally I'd get a controller for the 2400W element in my 100lt milk can boiler & run the 3600W flat out. Do any of you guys run with just the 3600W on it's own without a controller. I used to run 2 x 2400W elements until temp reached then switched one off. Assuming I can throw enough cooling water at it, the 4" should run fine with just the 3600W?
Cheers

Depends on abv of wash/ mash. On my sugarhead my setup will happily chug along at 3600w without loss volume. 1kg sugar 5l water.

On a angel yeast all grain i drop back to about 2400w or I push tails through early.

Setup for neutral, still 1kg sugar per 5l water i drop back to 1800w as i dont want to push flavour through. 4", 4 plates 600mm packed section.

I run two 2400 as well, just put a controller on one and use it to modulate the output to slow things right down for pot mode and faster for stripping. Works well, 3600 will be tough to get a controller for, 2400 is easy.

I also agree with the post immediately before mine, by using the controller you can wind water right back as well, or push the still harder. More variables but it enhances you capabilities and with such a capable unit, its endless.

Thanks guys.
I'll get a controller sorted out asap. I watched a video Doc made some time ago where he ran 6000W for heat up then ran around 4000W for a single malt over 4 plates so assumed my heat up of 6000W would be fine then run at 3600W until I get the controller for the 2400W element.

My choice was to get the twin bar elements from Andrew 2.4and 3.6 Kw ,then wire each bar independently. Four switches gives a range of 1.2 1.8 2.4 3.0 3.6 4.2 4.8 0r 6.0Kw. A Variac on one of the 1200s fine tunes anything between.