Bubbler Build 4" With Pics

[flamehawk]

So having got much use out of the simple pot still, I realised that this hobby is something that i intend to be doing for years to come.

I have no plans for this build and i'll be asking questions along the way from our very impressive builders.

Its taken me around six hours so far and i think i could knock it out in two weeks if i had all the parts.

I bought the 6mm and half inch from the scrap yard. the easy flange was piss easy by the 2nd one and i brazed the easy flange the to 2" reducer.

I'm still hunting from some 4" pipe so ill keep going past the scrap year to see what i can find. If anyone is in western Sydney and some some 4" about 2 ft long for sale i'd love to hear from you.

[bt1]

Could just be shot angle but looks tight from sight glass clamp to joiner clamp spacing...hope she's ok

bt1

[flamehawk]

I presume that others have used a 4" t-piece before?

[Yummyrum]

I presume that others have used a 4" t-piece before?

Most That I have seen use a Tee have soldered fellules into them which give a few extra mm length that spaces everyrthing apart ...

Just measured mine and a 4" triclamp has an OD of 125mm - 130mm ( depending on gasket thicknes and point of clamp).
That might help you to work out you spacing .

BTW...you are off to flying start ...well done .At this pace you should have matured drink while I'm still doing my cleaning run
:clap:

[flamehawk]

worst case i have to fabricate something up. I will order some clamps prior to doing any more rings on the front.

I'll braze up the other end of the PC tomorrow and then drill and fit the water inlet outlets

I'll get a start on the 2" bends and reducer for 1st condenser (forget its name). The PC and 2 x 90 deg and 2" to 4" will be one piece. i look at everyone elses builds and i wanted to make it modular where required but fixed where possible.

Just waiting for my pay to hit the back and then i'll be all over MAC like a rash.

its really not a hard build. Having fabricated a steam engine previously i can tell you what's shite loads easier.

(I can tell you that silver solder with 2% cadmium is shite loads easier to solder than this cad free stuff i used. Fruke me that a pest.)

[MacStill]

I could be wrong it's been a while since I used brazing rods, but I think Cadmium is something that needs to be avoided.... hope someone can relieve my concerns here :handgestures-thumbupleft:

edit: just noticed if I read it right cadmium free has been used 8-}

[Sinerjee]

We use cadmium in most of the paints for the planes at work and whenever any sanding or anything has to be done the painter has to wear a sperm suit and they close of the area.
I wouldn't be putting it near something that I'm going to be consuming that's for sure.

[Yummyrum]

Started a Cadmium thread here as this is of interest and didn't want to derail Flamehawks build

[flamehawk]

you are right Mac. We used Cad rods in boiler making for steam engines prior to it being made illegal.

You can still get it for the right reasons and its shite loads easier to work with but SHOULD NOT BE USED FOR HUMAN CONSUMPTION.

It runs so much easier and wicks into ererything. This new silver solder does not run easy

[flamehawk]

Just measured mine and a 4" triclamp has an OD of 125mm - 130mm ( depending on gasket thicknes and point of clamp).
That might help you to work out you spacing .

:clap:

Even at 130mm i think i have plenty of room. Only time will tell :D

[dogbreath vodka]

Noice work mate :handgestures-thumbupleft: :handgestures-thumbupleft: :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[flamehawk]

I built the top portion today. I have not fitted the shogun condenser yet as i need to pressure test.

its starting to come together and i can see not too much work left. Might knock out the parrot early next week and have the remaining t-pieces done late next week.

[TheMechwarrior]

:handgestures-thumbupleft: :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[flamehawk]

OK here is a question for the experts out there.

The reflux condenser that sits above the 4 plates, i'm intending to use 2 x 4" joiners to make it 160mm high. I presume i can get away with 5 x 1/2 tubes in the the reflux condenser

I went with 4 half inch in the shotgun and over all its twice the length i have in the liebig and that has no trouble cooling the product so it should be fine.

thanks guys

[Yummyrum]

Nice work flamehawk...Two down two to go..or are there more .?
What are your plans with the plates...or is it a wait and see :-D

[flamehawk]

I'm going to get 4 plates from MAC

I can always make bubble caps later on. Will i notice anything special if I use bubble caps???

I'm hoping to have this done in two or three weeks and unfortunately the biggest hindrance is parts and finance

I did find some 100mm Cu pipe at the metal recyclers today. Grabbed a kilo for $7. Its only half 1mm thick but would be good for making the plates if i wanted to and for joining bits it i need to.

For anyone reading this who is thinking they want to build a bubbler, start scrounging the scrap yards now. You may have to go several times a week to see what's there and let the blokes know what your after. They will put it aside IF you are genuine. If you walk in off the street don't expect them to hold anything for you.

BTW, its not a matter of being a tight arse. You simply can't buy the stuff we want in the quantities we want. You need some bloke to fork out a few hundred quid on a 4" pipe and then chuck the off cut. Thats where we come in :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[Yummyrum]

I'm no expert..I've been following these builds for many years and building mine ATM.
The reflux condenser is a critical beast....It has to perform two tasks.
Hold the still in total reflux and then allow a controlled amount of product through while refluxing the rest.

Now 160mm would be Concidered way to long .This is based on most builds being 4x 1" tube or 6x 3/4" tube.
Most builds would not exceed 4" for the RC ..many use only 3" .

The longer it is means great total refux but when it comes time to take off product , then the colant flow has to be adjusted to a bear trickle and that can be a real trick to control.

This is where the shorter RCs with a smaller coolant area can be easier to control.



.

[flamehawk]

I wonder if 80mm would be too short? Thats 3" but i could put more pipes in to allow the vapour more contact time by slowing its travel down.

Does that make sense?

[Yummyrum]

Yes..you are totally onto it

[flamehawk]

Too easy, I can finish that tomorrow :)

What do most folk use for the hose connector. Is there a part from bunnings etc that can be soldered straight in?