Aussiedistiller, Home Distilling, Moonshine, Home Brew

Going to build a glasser and seeing as I cant get any 4" copper she'll be mostly out of Stainless Steel. For now will be a 5 plate with no packed section. 5th plate removable.
Plan is:
50L keg
*2400w element, voltage controlled (FSD)
*3600w element (FSD)
(*opposite fill port)
4 inch sight glass fill port (FSD)
4 inch ferrule off keg (FSD)
bottom drain
Heat shroud

100mm x 4" riser off keg
copper plates with 5 copper 1" bubble caps and d/comer (still don't understand quite enough about these but im sure ill get the help when needed.)
FSD custom EDPM seals
Primus glass (110mmx 115mm)
8mm x 5 ss rods (last plate clamped with connector nuts)

100mm riser off the glass sections
160mm SS RC with 6 copper 15mm pipes (I think I can solder copper to stainless???) Thinking a copper plate with copper pipes
no packed section as yet as I don't have enough 4"
4" to 2" reducer (FSD)
2 x FSD 90* bends (with a small piece between to shift PC away from column)
2" shotgun (haven't worked out how long to make this yet or how many inner pipes I need) also with copper pipes if possible
2"to 3/4 reducer
homemade parrot

(and an emu up a gumtree)

All held together with FSD tri clamps.

sound like a plan?

Looks like a plan to me mate. :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Just one thing, have you factored in the height of the full rig with a packed section and raising the boiler a few inches to allow for drain, just to make sure you have enough height in the shed? :think:

If you need to save a couple of inches you could go with a blockhead design. :D

Think the height should be ok, I remember reading a thread where someone was tight for height (needed 3.2m or so) and I measured my shed and had heaps of head height left. might add it all up and measure tonight though just incase, cheers. Whats a blockhead though?

good luck with the build!
keep us informed and remember...
:text-worthless:

Sounds like a well thought out plan to me, only thing I would say is it's not an easy job soldering SS to copper so you may want to rethink that part about your RC, just make it a full on copper one :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Cant wait to see this build progress, take heaps of pics mate :D

Cheers Mac :handgestures-thumbupleft:
I've got a few ideas of a design of the rc/pc plates that may help the copper to stainless bond, will sketch up something and see what you and everyone thinks.
The plan simply takes the best bits of everyone's builds and hopefully not many of the F#%K ups. Most of the design has to be credited to wood ducks beauty of a glasser. :handgestures-thumbupleft:
Cheers

my idea of how to get more surface area for a copper to stainless join.
I would cut a copper plate and solder on a 12mm or so skirt that would fit neatly into the SS FSD ferrule/ pipe.
this would be inserted into the pipe/ ferrule leaving a minimal lip for solder.
result would be approx 19cm2 of soldered joint. (more for the 4 inch RC)
Thoughts?

Look at what I came home to... :happy-partydance:


Plus as a bonus.... Hours of fun for the kids!


Bubble wrap :happy-partydance:
That'll keep them distracted while I sneak out to the shed! :laughing-rolling:

All in all a BIG thank you to Mac and Mrs Mac, excellent gear and service to boot.
Cheers

I bet that took a while to unwrap, Mrs Mac is pretty handy with a tape gun. :))

Hi double,

i can't see any reason your idea wouldn't work but have you thought of maybe just using ss tubes? I'm not completely sure but i recon macs are full ss.

Just a thought

I look forward to watching your build and can't wait to see a stainless glasser :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Started off carefully slicing through the tape to unwrap my pressies but soon ended up tearing apart the wrap like a kid at Christmas! :laughing-rolling:

The idea for the copper in stainless was to try to maximise the amount of copper I can get into the rig, going to give it a try unless someone has a definitive reason why not to.

Doubleuj wrote:
All in all a BIG thank you to Mac and Mrs Mac, excellent gear and service to boot.
Cheers

You're very welcome mate, thanks for your feedback :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Doubleuj wrote:my idea of how to get more surface area for a copper to stainless join.
I would cut a copper plate and solder on a 12mm or so skirt that would fit neatly into the SS FSD ferrule/ pipe.
this would be inserted into the pipe/ ferrule leaving a minimal lip for solder.
result would be approx 19cm2 of soldered joint. (more for the 4 inch RC)
Thoughts?

On my last reflux condencer I made,it was stainless with copper tubes .I made the end plates from 3mm stainless and had them tiged in ,then all I had to do was braze in the copper tubes ,with no chance of stuffing the other joins,and I got the welder to tig on a couple of 1\2inch npt weld on fittings for the coolant connections,worked a treat.cheers hillzabilly :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Ok shes a bit ruff dont judge me yet first crack at the whip

I tried tig weldinc copper to copper usin earth wire as a filler rod

And copper to staino using silver solder as a filler

I should add its recommened to use helium gas to tig staino to copper

Looks good to me mate that would clean up real nice :handgestures-thumbupleft:

It's just the little pin holes that you have to find touch up and you will be right.

just the start of copper bashing.

I cant seem to find the normal/ preferred height of bubble caps but I am assuming that if you had a max bath depth of 25mm then would a riser of 30mm be ok? and then a cap of 35mm?
(all going to be 1 inch caps with an adjustable down comer. )
does this sound right?

Have a look at Woodduck's Glassduck build. It contains all the information you need. If I remember correctly Woodduck ultimately went with 15mm bath depth.