CRB's 4" Glasser Build

Perforated & bubble cap plated columns

Re: CRB's 4" Glasser Build

Postby Doubleuj » Fri May 20, 2016 6:53 am

rumdidlydum wrote:25 x 1/2 tubes but don't use thick backing plates :angry-banghead:

He said "successfully" soldered rum :teasing-tease: :laughing-rolling: :teasing-nutkick:
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Re: CRB's 4" Glasser Build

Postby WTDist » Fri May 20, 2016 7:20 am

Doubleuj wrote:
rumdidlydum wrote:25 x 1/2 tubes but don't use thick backing plates :angry-banghead:

He said "successfully" soldered rum :teasing-tease: :laughing-rolling: :teasing-nutkick:

did it not work?
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Re: CRB's 4" Glasser Build

Postby CaptainRedBeard » Fri May 20, 2016 7:39 am

Well here's my plan I slapped together on the phone app AutoCad360.
20160520_065348_crop_604x604.jpg

It's 27 x 1/2" tubes.

I'm getting pretty confident in my soft soldering now that I think I can do it. As long as I'm precise with my hole centre punches and pilot holes, it should work a treat.

Thinking of adding an additional plate/s with corners cut out, and piecing them in through out the pipe to spread the waterflow from side to side(saw woodduck either did this, or considered doing it).
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Re: CRB's 4" Glasser Build

Postby WTDist » Fri May 20, 2016 9:51 am

CaptainRedBeard wrote:Well here's my plan I slapped together on the phone app AutoCad360.
20160520_065348_crop_604x604.jpg

It's 27 x 1/2" tubes.

I'm getting pretty confident in my soft soldering now that I think I can do it. As long as I'm precise with my hole centre punches and pilot holes, it should work a treat.

Thinking of adding an additional plate/s with corners cut out, and piecing them in through out the pipe to spread the waterflow from side to side(saw woodduck either did this, or considered doing it).

have water in on one side, and water out on other, and with little water volume it wont matter. :text-+1: on those center punches. as long as you can drill them exact and clean solder joints well before soldering i see success. just getting ready to cut up that 3mm stuff for my RC plates :? hmm fun

also, auto cad phone app?
Last edited by rumdidlydum on Fri May 20, 2016 12:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Reason: Removed double post
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Re: CRB's 4" Glasser Build

Postby CaptainRedBeard » Fri May 20, 2016 11:32 am

Yeah WT. It's on android, I'd assume apple too. AutoCad360. Bit difficult to get used to, very basic in comparison to the desktop version's, but seems to do the job ok for 2D drawings, can do 3D too but I haven't tried it yet. Can save to scale in PDF format, so it prints out to scale :smile:

Better than my dodgy caliper drawings.
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Re: CRB's 4" Glasser Build

Postby woodduck » Fri May 20, 2016 1:48 pm

Yer i put the plate in the middle of my rc and I recon it works well, well from what I can tell from what I've heard others say anyway.
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Re: CRB's 4" Glasser Build

Postby CaptainRedBeard » Fri May 20, 2016 3:05 pm

Yeah woodduck, if I can successfully drill these plates, I'll add one or two in the middle somewhere.

Just got home from work with my printouts of the plate design, and it's printed it 4 mm smaller than it should have :angry-banghead:

Hopefully I can get my old hunk of junk printer going and figure out what the problem is.
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Re: CRB's 4" Glasser Build

Postby scythe » Fri May 20, 2016 6:37 pm

I put a baffle in my RC as well.
Best bit of advice i can give you is finish the OD that the plates will be and then drill them as a stack.
0.2mm off to one side is going to matter
Before you take the stack apart mark a reference point so they all line up properly once you start sliding tubes in.
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Re: CRB's 4" Glasser Build

Postby Dig Brinker » Fri May 20, 2016 11:29 pm

Good luck, captain. I have 18 X 1/2 inch in mine and it went together pretty well. Couple of pinholes only. As opposed to the advice from WT, I didn't clean the plates or tubes before soldering :scared-eek: Left them all tarnished and using a good painting of Baker's flux with a small brush around the tube where it meets the plate, I found this cleaned enough for the solder to take while discouraging the solder from flowing & pooling all over the top of the plate.


Happy drillin'
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Re: CRB's 4" Glasser Build

Postby WTDist » Sat May 21, 2016 7:29 am

Dig Brinker wrote:Good luck, captain. I have 18 X 1/2 inch in mine and it went together pretty well. Couple of pinholes only. As opposed to the advice from WT, I didn't clean the plates or tubes before soldering :scared-eek: Left them all tarnished and using a good painting of Baker's flux with a small brush around the tube where it meets the plate, I found this cleaned enough for the solder to take while discouraging the solder from flowing & pooling all over the top of the plate.


Happy drillin'

i didnt mean clean the whole plate lol, just the part that is in contact with the solder, if you solder the tubes in right atfer cutting the holers then i guess the plate wont need to be cleaned on the joint as its fresh. Ive found ti flows where you want much better if the joint itself to be soldered is clean, not clean and can be a bitch. I also use the paint brush trick, if it doesnt flow hit it some more :))

As for the printout being 4mm smaller.... that sux but guess what...got my wife to print mine too yesterday while she was at work. she got home, i checked. 96mm not 100 :angry-banghead: i even said MAKE EXACT SIZE. oh well. i just moved all cross-hairs (middle to be be punched) out 2mm. should work.
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Re: CRB's 4" Glasser Build

Postby CaptainRedBeard » Sat May 21, 2016 9:17 am

Lol WT, pain in the arse these printers these days. Mind of their own :angry-banghead:

I'm away for work as per usual this weekend, so no build progress :crying-blue: but plenty of study. All I can think of is stills, stills, stills! Even thinking of building another when I finish this one x_x
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Re: CRB's 4" Glasser Build

Postby CaptainRedBeard » Mon May 23, 2016 5:11 pm

Ok, quick update.

I've had a family member unexpectedly fall ill, so pretty well all of my free time is now spent at the hospital. However, I had myself a few hours to kick myself in the arse and start building this PC.

Used a step drill for the plates, but didn't set the depth guage on my pedestal, so I ended up with a few holes too big on my first plate. I'll just flare the tubes affected so it's a tight fit to solder. Learnt my lesson though and had the guage set for the second plate.
20160523_122120-1200x1600.jpg


Then soldered them into the tube. It's 600mm long.
20160523_142414(0)-1200x1600.jpg


Then got a quarter of the way through soldering the tubes. Only did the one side, was short on time to flip the hot pipe back and forth...and I've gotta deal with flaring the tubes yet. The rest of the tubes are soaking to try and get off the damn kembla stickers.
20160523_165414-1200x1600.jpg

Anyways. I'm off to the hospital. :greetings-waveyellow:
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Re: CRB's 4" Glasser Build

Postby WTDist » Mon May 23, 2016 5:39 pm

i burnt the stickers off, then sanded them back.

and holy shit man what you plan on throwing at that pc, 10000w stripping runs ;-)

I thought this was for your RC
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Re: CRB's 4" Glasser Build

Postby Doubleuj » Mon May 23, 2016 5:48 pm

WTDist wrote:i burnt the stickers off, then sanded them back.

and holy shit man what you plan on throwing at that pc, 10000w stripping runs ;-)

I thought this was for your RC

:text-+1: holy crap that's going to be a PC and a half!
My 5 core 2" PC knocks 6000w down and the outlet water is cold when it comes out so it could handle more if I needed.
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Re: CRB's 4" Glasser Build

Postby jacobraven » Mon May 23, 2016 5:54 pm

Thats massive but wouldnt more water volume be more effective at cooling. To me adding more volume reduces your potential for cooling and increase vapour/ liquid amount. It takes longer to heat more volume
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Re: CRB's 4" Glasser Build

Postby rumdidlydum » Mon May 23, 2016 6:22 pm

I'm glad you are getting 3mm plates now, looking at the weight of that :teasing-tease:

Seriously overkill but hey you wont need much water running through it :handgestures-thumbupleft: :laughing-rolling:
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Re: CRB's 4" Glasser Build

Postby CaptainRedBeard » Mon May 23, 2016 6:33 pm

Ok. So why did I lose my marbles and build a gattling gun for a PC? ...well... just because I wanted to see if I could :laughing-rolling:
And maybe one day I'll build something silly, like an 8" still, the PC could come in handy then.
jacobraven wrote:Thats massive but wouldnt more water volume be more effective at cooling. To me adding more volume reduces your potential for cooling and increase vapour/ liquid amount. It takes longer to heat more volume

The way I see it, it's still 600mm long, with 27 tubes for vapor contact. It would need very little water to make full contact and condense. As for now, I'm on gas, and when I get around to building a new boiler, I'll probably only be throwing 4000W-ish at it anyway, so no worries about the PC being efficient.
rumdidlydum wrote:I'm glad you are getting 3mm plates now, looking at the weight of that :teasing-tease:

Seriously overkill but hey you wont need much water running through it :handgestures-thumbupleft: :laughing-rolling:

It's all part of the fun isn't it? :laughing-rolling:
...wondering if somewhere sells 10mm plates :teasing-tease:
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Re: CRB's 4" Glasser Build

Postby CaptainRedBeard » Tue May 24, 2016 10:37 am

So. Turns out this place isn't very far from work >
20160524_094836-1200x1600.jpg
20160524_094847-1200x1600.jpg

Unfortunately the largest copper sheets they had was 2.0mm. So I bought some. I'll start rebuilding the plates again on Friday.
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Re: CRB's 4" Glasser Build

Postby WTDist » Tue May 24, 2016 10:55 am

what do they charge for those sheets in the pic, 2mm?
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Re: CRB's 4" Glasser Build

Postby CaptainRedBeard » Tue May 24, 2016 12:11 pm

WTDist wrote:what do they charge for those sheets in the pic, 2mm?


The 2mm 150x150mm are around $16 each. Shipping adds another $5/$10. So I did a walk in instead.
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