The Heart of Gold

[Zak Griffin]

Cheers boys. It certainly is easier following a more beaten path than trying to build a semi-modular 6" rig out if an old hot water tank...

Got the other 3 fishmouths roughly cut, if it stops raining this arvo I'll hit them with the flap disk and then sandpaper on 4" pipe to get them spot on.

The list is getting pretty short!

[bluc]

Really gotta read more before i post. Tip with sandpaper on a piece of pipe is a good one. looking good zac your powering through it..

[coffe addict]

Your doing a bloody good job zac, keep it up!
Race ya :laughing-rolling:

[Zak Griffin]

Cheers lads. Off to work for a week tomorrow but I'll see what I can do when I get back :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[Zak Griffin]

School report looks something like this;

'Zak has trouble concentrating and struggles to see a task to completion. He gets distracted easily and doesn't work well with others'

Today I finished cleaning up my fishmouths -

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Then the ADD kicked in!

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This is the start of my Carter head, the 'Infinite Improbablity Drive'

3" x 300mm body with a 150mm basket, 2" inlet and outlet, 1" thumper tube. Going to use an 80mm BCF lantern lense for the thumper body/sightglass, with a 1/2" drain.

I started playing with this today because I need some more 1/2" for the RC. Apart from the RC and SG's, the Heart of Gold is done!

[rumdidlydum]

I'm sure the techwra just copied and pasted those lines from a teacher textbook or something, I had the same comments :laughing-rolling: 8-}

Your carter head has me intrigued. I haven't yet worked out how it goes together but ill get there 8-} :laughing-rolling:

[Zak Griffin]

Spent all morning trying to find a clear 80mm lantern lense, nothing! :angry-banghead:

Got a length of 1/2" to finish my RC though :happy-partydance:

[Zak Griffin]

Cut up the 1.5m of 1/2" into 13x 110mm pieces, and cut another two out of some offcuts I had.

15x 1/2", 110mm long should knock down everything I need, yeah? I'm Going to remake the end plates too, the ones I prepared earlier were pretty rough.

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[warramungas]

Cut up the 1.5m of 1/2" into 13x 110mm pieces, and cut another two out of some offcuts I had.

15x 1/2", 110mm long should knock down everything I need, yeah? I'm Going to remake the end plates too, the ones I prepared earlier were pretty rough.

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Something that always gets me with these rc's is that they are always flush with the base. I.e. Where they clamp to the top of the tee. Why dont we recess them somehow by a couple of inches into the condenser on one end allowing you to place another plate between the top of the top tee and the condenser using the same clamp? Would save you building one tee.
Just thinking out loud again. :think:

[bluc]

I was wondering why two inch is used above the rc and why pc is always long rather than stumpy like a rc?

[rumdidlydum]

I was wondering why two inch is used above the rc and why pc is always long rather than stumpy like a rc?

I would think that the larger pipe diameter will hold a shallow bath depth but retain more liquid than a smaller diameter pipe, that would have to have a greater bath depth for the same amount.
The deeper the bath the more flavour striped.

The reason why a pc is longer is so that you can drop the temp as low as you can with an efficient amount of water. Plus you need to get your parrot down to a workable level :-B

My thoughts on the matter.
Lets stay on topic now :O)

[aussiebrewer]

Nice build there zac.

Im wondering if you are brazing or soldering the RC?

if the RC is to be 110mm long, would it be better to have the internals cut to 140mm long to overhang and have something for the torch to hit?

[Zak Griffin]

I'm going to braze the 1/2" internals to the end plates, and solder the internals into the shell. There will be a couple of mm of 1/2" hanging out of each end, any more than that is a waste of copper.

bluc, 2" is a lot cheaper than 4"! Also aesthetics and the reasons that rummy mentioned.

warra, that'd make soldering the bottom RC plate in pretty tricky. It'd also put a plate above a packed section if you run one. A better idea, and what I'll probably do, is build a 1 piece 5th plate + packed section module ;-)

[Zak Griffin]

Little bit more work done on the infinite improbability drive this arvo -

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Got the inlet branch done, just need to drill a 1" hole in the plate so she can breathe. Got the outlet branch done, I just need to drill a couple of 2" holes in the main body now and glue them both on.

I rang everywhere in adelaide and nobody has a clear 80mm primus glass so I'm going to have to eBay it... Plenty of frosted glasses but no clear?

Got the plates cut for the top of the body and the bottom of the glass. Almost done!

[rumdidlydum]

Not long to go now, are you going to shine her up? :O)

[Zak Griffin]

I'll get at least the cleaning runs done before I get too keen with the polish, to check for leaks/problems.

The contrasting copper, SS and brass are gunna look good though!

[Zak Griffin]

Got the RC plates drilled and almost all the internals soldered in this arvo. Run out of 15% silver solder stick with one end of one internal to go :laughing-rolling: :angry-banghead:

Had a couple of little dramas with a couple of the internals popping out of the second plate while I was soldering the top. I should've drilled the holes to 12.5mm instead of 13.. The joys of a limited toolbox!

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Can anyone guess the super-scientific reason I have one side of the RC with no internals?

[bluc]

Stop pooling?

[RuddyCrazy]

snapped the drill bit :)) :)) :)) :))

[Zak Griffin]

Both wrong, but Bryan is closer... I forgot to cut down the brass nipple/socket for the water out when I soldered it in :laughing-rolling:

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Turns out I'm about 3/4 of the way through soldering the internals into the bottom plate, but they're all started. I'll get another stick of solder after payday and get it done :)