Cutting Copper Tube
Posted: Tue Apr 21, 2020 3:38 pm
Hi Folks,
Not trying to show people how to suck eggs but I wanted to present a visual show and tell in relation to how I’ve been cutting the larger copper sections for my recent build. None of this is new and it does exist in many places on the forum. I just wanted to give a simple reference for some people who have limited fabricating experience or equipment to use. It is obvious that there is a huge range in workshop access that members have. Some people have extensive metalworking facilities with mills, lathes, benders welders etc, etc. Where as others have less than a corner of a garden shed to undertake a build with limited tools.
I personally would not be interested in this type of fabrication project without an angle grinder. I’ve seen many people talk about using a hacksaw and there is nothing wrong with that if that’s all you have. They can be very accurate if you are prepared to take your time. The problem with a hacksaw is that you also need a vice, cramps or another method of holding your copper in place. You can pick up an angle grinder for as little as $24 from the big green shed and a couple of bucks will get you a 1mm cutting disc that will last for ages if you are only cutting copper. Here’s how I cut my copper tube to length:
After filing or sanding the end of the tube so that it’s nice and square, I mark out the length of the copper that I need. A piece of paper with one straight edge is wrapped around the tube so that the overlapping wraps of paper line up. I then slide the paper up to the mark. This will ensure a square cut.
A whiteboard marker can then follow the edge of the paper and mark the cut line. Touching the paper with the marker ensures that one side of the line is perfectly straight.
The tubing to be cut is then placed on top of a woodworking vice with the jaws partially open. The pipe sits in place but is not cramped. A wooden jig will perform the same task and can be constructed from timber off cuts. Long lengths of tube will obviously need extra support.
Cutting can now begin. Start an entry cut about .25mm from the edge of the line. (Sounds difficult but it is quite easy when using the 1mm blade) ensure that your other hand holds the tubing securely.
Slowly rotate the pipe towards you and continue to cut the tube. Keep a close eye on the line.
If you are careful, the start and end of the cut will line up perfectly.
Continue cutting all the way around.
Job done. A quick touch up and a bit of deburring and you are ready for the next task.
You will notice that the piece of copper in this case is quite short. I would not attempt this method on any tube where my hands could not be positioned safely away from the cutting disc. This is about as short a piece as I would cut this way. Don’t forget all your PPE when using the angle grinder. (Especially eye protection and ear muffs.) Hope this is of some help to a few of you. Enjoy your builds.
Cheers
Les
Not trying to show people how to suck eggs but I wanted to present a visual show and tell in relation to how I’ve been cutting the larger copper sections for my recent build. None of this is new and it does exist in many places on the forum. I just wanted to give a simple reference for some people who have limited fabricating experience or equipment to use. It is obvious that there is a huge range in workshop access that members have. Some people have extensive metalworking facilities with mills, lathes, benders welders etc, etc. Where as others have less than a corner of a garden shed to undertake a build with limited tools.
I personally would not be interested in this type of fabrication project without an angle grinder. I’ve seen many people talk about using a hacksaw and there is nothing wrong with that if that’s all you have. They can be very accurate if you are prepared to take your time. The problem with a hacksaw is that you also need a vice, cramps or another method of holding your copper in place. You can pick up an angle grinder for as little as $24 from the big green shed and a couple of bucks will get you a 1mm cutting disc that will last for ages if you are only cutting copper. Here’s how I cut my copper tube to length:
After filing or sanding the end of the tube so that it’s nice and square, I mark out the length of the copper that I need. A piece of paper with one straight edge is wrapped around the tube so that the overlapping wraps of paper line up. I then slide the paper up to the mark. This will ensure a square cut.
A whiteboard marker can then follow the edge of the paper and mark the cut line. Touching the paper with the marker ensures that one side of the line is perfectly straight.
The tubing to be cut is then placed on top of a woodworking vice with the jaws partially open. The pipe sits in place but is not cramped. A wooden jig will perform the same task and can be constructed from timber off cuts. Long lengths of tube will obviously need extra support.
Cutting can now begin. Start an entry cut about .25mm from the edge of the line. (Sounds difficult but it is quite easy when using the 1mm blade) ensure that your other hand holds the tubing securely.
Slowly rotate the pipe towards you and continue to cut the tube. Keep a close eye on the line.
If you are careful, the start and end of the cut will line up perfectly.
Continue cutting all the way around.
Job done. A quick touch up and a bit of deburring and you are ready for the next task.
You will notice that the piece of copper in this case is quite short. I would not attempt this method on any tube where my hands could not be positioned safely away from the cutting disc. This is about as short a piece as I would cut this way. Don’t forget all your PPE when using the angle grinder. (Especially eye protection and ear muffs.) Hope this is of some help to a few of you. Enjoy your builds.
Cheers
Les