FSD RIMS prototype

[MacStill]

Hi all,

Check this out and give me your thoughts please, if there's no obvious problems (which I don't think there is) with this unit I'm happy to release them into the web store after I figure pricing.

All threads are BSP, element size 2400w.

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[Blackened]

My 2 cents

Looks effective :clap: . I take it the reducer on the end is intended for outflow? With one of the side ports for inflow and one for a thermocouple? Mine has a simple closed flange on the end with a BSP port for a thermocouple. So the inflow/outflow occurs from the side ports.

Just asking, because some may try and put a thermocouple at the end of the reducer and this might result in inaccurate temperature readings. (maybe poor flow or mixing with the bulk of the liquid)

In the interest of accuracy I didn't use the supplied probe port, and placed my thermocouple in a elbow fitting attached to the outflow thereby guaranteeing my temperature readings would be a true reflection of the outflow, rather than perhaps a hot/cold spot within the RIMS tube. I don't suppose you intend selling T pieces or elbows for inline measurements? Having the probe inline also provided for greater relative fluid speed which IMHO provides quicker heat transfer between fluid and probe. Whether this is significant enough to effect our end result I'll leave up to others to decide, as I have no way of comparing one method to another.

Edit:
I should also add that I wish my unit had some sort of boil dry protection. Maybe somewhere flat (flattened portion of the tube wall even) where a small bi-metal thermostat/thermoswitch could be placed so power could be cut in the event of over heating. Or at least trigger an alarm/buzzer/flashing light or something even if it wasn't wired directly into the element.

[MacStill]

Here's how I'm looking at setting mine up vertically (inlet is the lower hose barb) for my next AG whisky, only where the thermometer is I'd put a thermocouple for the temp controller, and the valve is for the final sparge once switching the element off.

Electric boil dry switch/alarm is outside my capabilities though, so if you can find me a suitable product I could look into it but I'd prefer to just supply the unit in a fairly bare option so the user can customise to their own liking.

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I'm totally open to suggestions as this is a prototype, and I know we've got some smart AG fellas on here I'd love some feedback from :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[Whiskyaugogo]

RIMS = ? :violence-stickwhack:

[Sam.]

Here is an explanation of a few of the terms...

http://beersmith.com/blog/2011/08/11/ri ... -for-beer/

Thanks mate, great read!!

[Blackened]

Here's how I'm looking at setting mine up vertically (inlet is the lower hose barb) for my next AG whisky, only where the thermometer is I'd put a thermocouple for the temp controller, and the valve is for the final sparge once switching the element off.

The one thing I'd be concerned with regarding your vertical set up, is that with the element at the top, it will be the first thing exposed if air enters the system for any reason. Also if the liquid reaches boiling point the element could also be exposed due to the steam rising upwards. A kinked hose, flow rate slowing due to a stuck sparge etc will easily and rapidly cause the liquid to boil. :crying-blue: Whereas if it were at the bottom, gravity will keep it covered for longer, before the liquid boils off. This doesn't fix things, but does give the brewer a bit more time to notice any problems and address them before scorching occurs. A non-return valve on the inlet, with the element at the bottom would be ideal I guess. That way any steam would be pushed out the outlet, keeping as much liquid over the element as possible.

Having said all that, my own setup is horizontal. And I'm seriously considering modifying it to drop the element end a bit lower, now that I've thought about it more.

Sorry MacStill, I don't mean to poke holes in your prototype! Mine is just one opinion and others may feel my concerns are unwarranted.

With a 2400W element, this unit *seems* to be aimed at batch sizes of 25 - 50L?

It looks awesome BTW! Seems very much fit for the purpose. Food grade, magnetically coupled pumps are much better value for money these days too, making RIMS much more attractive.

[Whiskyaugogo]

Shit Mac, I will spend all my savings on your stuff :laughing-rolling:

[MacStill]

I don't boil wort mate, the hottest I go to is 63 - 64c doing a 1 step mash for whisky, and then maybe a protein rest for a bit.

Also the element is 95% submerged at the outlet, I'll be using 3/4" tri clamp pipe with a pee trap above the element rather than flexible hose, stuck mash is not a problem as I can throw my pump into reverse to blow the false bottom clear.

My mash tunn is 300L and I use hot water that's about 50c from the tap so the element is just to maintain temp via controller, 2400w worked beautifully on the FSD - HERMS too and there's always the option of going to 3600w if it's needed.

I guess I'll just have to set it up and get some pics so you got a visual as those fittings are only roughed in & dont give a good indication of how it's pictured in my mind, and it's not a big deal to mount it horizontally on my mash tunn so that's on the cards as all I'd need is to swap out the reducer for an eccentric one.

With three outlets there's a few ways this could be set up, so it's versatile and fairly customisable for any individuals needs, thanks for the feedback too :handgestures-thumbupleft:

I guess I just need to set it up and see how she goes and I reckon it'll be fine, the things that will need looking at is the bits to link upto the mash tunn & this is simple to do :D

[Blackened]

Yes it is a very versatile. Maintaining temp on the 300L would be a breeze. You wouldn't bleed 2400W worth I wouldn't think. Ramp up/step mashing might be a bit slow for large batches if you start with cold wort. When mashing for the purpose of spirits I haven't bothered with a mashout. I don't know what others do.

On the subject of boiling wort though, what I mean is that if you have 65C inflow, very small RIMS tube volume (1L?), and any accidental interruption to flow it wouldn't take long to boil that small volume in the tube. It tends to cause proteins to stick to the element in the short term, and obviously if you don't notice it could end in tears.

I look forward to seeing your pics. :smile:

[MacStill]

ok now I got ya, I'll whack a 3/4" sight glass in the line back to the sparge arm so I can see what's going through it.

anyone electrically minded got a cheap solution for a temp set cut off switch for the element ? I might go to Jaycar tomorrow to see what they reckon as they're only about 1km down the road.

reckon I'll mount it horizontal with the outlet on top after your posts, should prevent any air lock or dry spots on the element too :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Just gotta change the reducer to an eccentric one and it'll drain perfectly for sparging at the end of mashing :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Too easy :happy-partydance:

[Blackened]

Sounds like a plan :handgestures-thumbupleft:

The bi-metal dealies I was referring to are found in many appliances. For something like this you'd get one rated to cut-out at 110C I reckon. They aren't usually meant for accurate temperature control or anything like that as they have a very wide hysteresis. They need the temperature to drop considerably before they switch on again. Used in electric kettles, dishwashers, and those types of appliances. Although I did have an old electric hot water service that used a bi=metal thermostat. But for your purpose you'll have a thermocouple on the outlet anyway and your temperature controller should be effective. Provided it's not actually dry in the tube so there's wort or at least steam passing the thermocouple it would work ok. Ebay has them (bi-metal snap disk) but mine have all been recovered from old appliances cos' I'm a tight arse lol. Just looking on ebay again and those prices aren't particularly cheap, all from the US with killer postage. They should be very cheap but I'm not seeing any chinese sellers today...

Glad I can help :smile: Forums such as AHB have more people knowledgeable about such things.

[MacStill]

everything is cool except the AHB bit, I just cant cop the elitism and bullshit adds over there.... we got enough smart cookies here to get all the advice we need electrically :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[Blackened]

everything is cool except the AHB bit, I just cant cop the elitism and bullshit adds over there.... we got enough smart cookies here to get all the advice we need electrically :handgestures-thumbupleft:

hehe. There's some really knowledgeable people there, but they are swamped by all the rest of the... ehem... *individuals*.... Wears thin pretty quick.

[MacStill]

Anyway.............. :whistle:

Have you seen my HERMS ?

It's a bit pricey but geez they're bloody good, there's thread in this section somewhere about it.

Shame AHB hates us, we have a lot to offer for those guys who are pretty serious about mashing & AG, but most will never see any of it as they just delete any links to here or the FSD web store.

It's there loss & probably for the best as FSD is just about working to its full capacity as far as mrs mac & I can handle, and we're blown away by where this hobby has take us.... mrs mac has had to go part time in her real job now just so we can keep up...... we're just not sure how far we want to take this at the moment so sticking to this forum suits us just fine :D

[Blackened]

If only we could all turn our hobbies into successful businesses! Well done in all regards. You're living the dream that many of us have :) Although mine still revolves around Drew Barrymore and Milla Jovovich, but we won't go into that right now.... :D

I have seen your RIMS on the FSD site. Man it's ALL very nice... but alas I'm not in an income bracket that allows me to spend $$$ on this hobby. $ yes..... $$ sometimes.... $$$ not so much lol.

[Blackened]

I had no idea the AHB were editing posts to the degree you say. Yet another reason why I won't be hanging out there much.

[MacStill]

I dont think it's a personal thing, more like the legal side of what we do..... the last one I know of was a link to my copper mesh in the web store that was deleted after someone was asking where to source it...... meh!

The paid membership is what pissed me off, people paying to access their own information they posted there is bullshit IMHO ;-)

So, that'll do me me as I'd rather talk about the evil distilling thing we do anyway, even ben looking at the RIMS and how I can set it up as a re boiler for the botanical oils on the carter head and directing it back in above the product condenser to see how that goes.

[MacStill]

RIMS = ? :violence-stickwhack:

Research In My Site :teasing-nutkick:

[Kimbo]

RIMS = ? :violence-stickwhack:

Research In My Site :teasing-nutkick:

:laughing-rolling: :laughing-rolling: :laughing-rolling: :laughing-rolling:

[home_brewer]

just my 2 cents as i run a rims system i would have the wort inlet at the element end and the thermo at the oulet end