sestos D1S-VR-220 PID controller

[1 2many]

Looking up PID controllers and sestos D1S-VR-220 PID controllerthe looks to be a reasonable unit according to brew guys, has anyone given these ago.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/321325885481 ... 1439.l2649

D1S-VR-220.jpg

[sp0rk]

A mate has one on his brew rig (for his herms) and he says it's the ducks nuts
note you'll need an SSR and a PT-100 probe to go with that unit
I personally haven't used one, but are you wanting to be able to program steps for your mash? (if that's what you're doing with it)
I'm not sure that model has ramp/soak functions

[punchy21]

Hey 12, I have one of these plus the SSR and a PT100 for a HERMS I'm putting together so I haven't used it yet but it does look to be quite well made...

[Kimbo]

I ordered one of those a couple of weeks ago, it should be here any day now :dance:

[mickiboi]

I have used Sestos controllers and timers for about 7 years and have installed these on boilers, chillers, condenser water systems and on friends distillers. For 30 bucks you cant beat them.

No ramp soak functions.

[1 2many]

Is there any good reason to use the PT 100 sensor I only have at this stage a K type probe, I believe it takes both types but I suppose the PT 100 sensors are cheap enough. :-B

[mickiboi]

Use the thermocouple.

[sp0rk]

Type K's are not accurate enough for the tolerances you want with mashing (esp if you're doing protein/acid/etc rests)

[1 2many]

After a bit of looking around I think I will go with a three wire PT 100, more accurate and won't suffer from lead resistance.

But I have a feeling these controllers only drive the resistance type ssr is that correct ? I actually wanted to drive the electric signal ssr as I was going to have it switchable between PID and PWM control.Think I got the wrong controller..
:angry-banghead:

I will have that many brand new parts I could set up shop :))

[mickiboi]

I use type K and they are accurate to 0.1 degC. More than enough for what we do. It doesn't matter what sensor you use as long as you calibrate it to around the temperature you are going to use it with. The controller you have is the correct one for driving the SSR. Like I said I have installed lots of these (I have about 100 on my shelf now) but someone who has only used one or two will no doubt know way more than me. You mean by switchable you want to run the element manually?

[punchy21]

If you are set on a PT100 then this is the one i got off ebay. Its a 1/2" thread and sealed also...

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/RTD-Pt100-oh ... 25800b15ce

[1 2many]

I use type K and they are accurate to 0.1 degC. More than enough for what we do. It doesn't matter what sensor you use as long as you calibrate it to around the temperature you are going to use it with. The controller you have is the correct one for driving the SSR. Like I said I have installed lots of these (I have about 100 on my shelf now) but someone who has only used one or two will no doubt know way more than me. You mean by switchable you want to run the element manually?

Thanks for your input mikiboi, at the end of the day I agree 0.1 to 1 deg I am happy with and rapt it will work with the SSR-25 DA. Yes I intend on hooking up a PWM for manual controll and a PID for the auto control switchable . :handgestures-thumbupleft:

The only problem I see with the K type is connection though a cabinet, I am under the impression that the wires from the control box have to be the same dissimilar metals as the K type thermocouple.

Cheers punchy at least that one has a decent nut on it compared to the ones I looked at today :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[mickiboi]

You can't extend the wires on a thermocouple, well you can but as that junction changed temperature then so does its reading, not what you want. The Sestos controller has a manual and automatic mode. Go into the settings and select "run", change the value to "0" and you can drive the output up and down using the up down arrows. Change back to "1" and it goes back to automatic control (PID).

[1 2many]

You can't extend the wires on a thermocouple, well you can but as that junction changed temperature then so does its reading, not what you want. The Sestos controller has a manual and automatic mode. Go into the settings and select "run", change the value to "0" and you can drive the output up and down using the up down arrows. Change back to "1" and it goes back to automatic control (PID).

What I am trying to achieve is using one ssr for 2 jobs they won't be operating at the same time.

In PMW mode it will controll the stills boiler
flick switch
In PID mode it will control a number of thing such as fermentation, mash,HLT, pump. one at a time of course.

I think OCD is kicking in again.

[mickiboi]

So you will take the temperature sensor from the boiler and put it somewhere else, then use the SSR to run a different element or a pump or something? Yes?

[1 2many]

So you will take the temperature sensor from the boiler and put it somewhere else, then use the SSR to run a different element or a pump or something? Yes?

Yeah no, the pwm is a separate circuit that will be manually controlled by pot with no temp sensor.

the the rest your rite. :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[mickiboi]

OK. The SSR you have is a voltage input meant for PWM. It wont work with a pot. For that you need a KR2040AX or similar. Or you can get an external PWM circuit and drive it that way but then you need a switch on the output of the SSR to go from the element to your other devices. I think it will be easier for you to just get another SSR and have 2 separate circuits. They aren't very expensive. Why don't you want to use the controller to keep your boiler temperature constant? Like set it 90 or something and forget it until your run is finished.

[MacStill]

Why don't you want to use the controller to keep your boiler temperature constant? Like set it 90 or something and forget it until your run is finished.

The question here is..... why would you ?

[mickiboi]

So whats the purpose of using the SSR and the pot on the element in the boiler in the first place? Is it just to save power?

[MacStill]

So whats the purpose of using the SSR and the pot on the element in the boiler in the first place? Is it just to save power?

Controlling stills by temperature ;-)