bluc wrote:You can get decent size roll solder and bakers flux at bunnings down in plumbing section not welding section
Make sure you get the lead free one :handgestures-thumbupleft:
woodduck wrote:Looks good.
I would definitely make it so your shotty comes off, you'll need that for your future bubbler. Other than that there is probably no real reason to go modular? I think the pelicans look cool so I would build that if it were me.
Good luck
RC Al wrote:The pelican is cool and a neat looking package, but were you plan to put you collection jars is more of an issue. I built a pelican but mainly use a spool with 2x90's and the condenser (one of my 90's is perm attached to the spool to save a joint), the 45 section hasn't seen use for a while
Filling and draining a 2" isnt so bad through the top hole, but certially painfull on multiple runs, the 2" gear is not heavy to move, just hot lols
scythe wrote:
Hard soldering / brazing takes a lot of heat.
And for low silver percent rods you don't need flux.
What rods did you get?
woodduck wrote:I agree with scythe, soft solder is a lot easier for beginners and doesn't need special tools or heaps of heat. Many say its too weak but that's bull shit. I've never broken a joint and I've built all my stills including a 6" with soft solder. There's a vid somewhere with me swinging a keg around on a soft soldered easy easy flange. Another benefit is soft solder doesn't anneal your copper so if you clumsy like me and drop your rc it won't deform and ruin it.
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