Rob's 2.5" Pot still build

Pot still design and discussion

Re: Rob's 2.5" Pot still build

Postby Zak Griffin » Tue Nov 25, 2014 3:48 pm

Depends on what height you want to collect at... A 45° should be right :handgestures-thumbupleft:
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Re: Rob's 2.5" Pot still build

Postby sp0rk » Tue Nov 25, 2014 5:08 pm

7evan wrote:
sp0rk wrote:
Urrazeb wrote:That is gonna be one weapon of a condenser :clap: :music-deathmetal:

My 500mm long 2.5" shotgun PC with 7 x 1/2" tubes was doing 5L an hour stripping on sunday, I possibly could have pushed it further but I didn't want to waste water/gas
Rob's should hit pretty similar figures :)


I think you'll find it will be more like 12-15L per hour. :handgestures-thumbupleft:
Waste that gas. Crank it up!!! :music-deathmetal:

Awesome, I need to hurry up and buy some elements and controllers
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Re: Rob's 2.5" Pot still build

Postby 1 2many » Tue Nov 25, 2014 5:14 pm

sp0rk wrote:Awesome, I need to hurry up and buy some elements and controllers


Yeah 2 x 2400 watt elements (run on separate circuits)is the go for a keg boiler and you will only need one controller. :handgestures-thumbupleft:
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Re: Rob's 2.5" Pot still build

Postby benpandaae86 » Tue Nov 25, 2014 6:36 pm

I brought one of macs 3600 w dual screw type elements ( i welded a 1 inch ss socket to the keg)and had the sparkys wire it up as 2 and i they made me a box with a 15amp lead and 2 10 amp leads comin out i use both for heating up and stripping runs anf drop back to one on the reflux
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Re: Rob's 2.5" Pot still build

Postby 1 2many » Tue Nov 25, 2014 6:46 pm

That's a different way of doing it not bad but one variable would be good...

Hay you almost have the same work boots as Big D. :laughing-rolling: :laughing-rolling:
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Re: Rob's 2.5" Pot still build

Postby robduca » Wed Nov 26, 2014 12:11 pm

Got one of these controllers ordered.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/181228222375

Just deciding what to do element wise. Will need to be 2400W as I don't have 15amp.
How much of a difference would it be having 2 elements for heating up? Has anyone timed the difference in heat up time from 1 element to 2?
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Re: Rob's 2.5" Pot still build

Postby Urrazeb » Wed Nov 26, 2014 12:54 pm

50L takes about 40-45 min for me depending on ambient temperature with 4800W
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Re: Rob's 2.5" Pot still build

Postby Meatheadinc » Wed Nov 26, 2014 1:06 pm

Hi rob

I have never timed it but it make a dramatic difference heating up on 2 elements

That controller is really easy to wire. The ones I have are not linear in adjustment and I would recommend a voltmeter to indicate power output.
old control box.jpg

my old control box for reference.
I prefer 2 element controllers. this allows me to run 1/2 - 3/4 power on both elements which enables me to run washes that are not completely clear and still avoid scorching. ( within limits)

one controller is fine and can be used up till full power then use second element and re adjust the 1st element. eg 0-2400wat using element 1 then both elements 2400-4800w

one element will be fine, you can always add a second at a later date if you need/desire
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Re: Rob's 2.5" Pot still build

Postby robduca » Wed Nov 26, 2014 2:58 pm

Yea might start with 1 element and maybe look at putting a second one after xmas.

I will probably solder the condenser straight into the elbow. Can't find 65x65 joiners and if I do need to use this condenser on another still, ill either make another or melt the solder and pull apart.
Got a 2.5" to 2" adapter ready for the join to keg.
Before I go solder on the product collection after the condenser, will I need to get into this section for any reason? I have a reducer down to 40mm at the moment and will reduce further but just want to make sure I don't need access.

Cant wait to get this finished and see what I can make!
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Re: Rob's 2.5" Pot still build

Postby woodduck » Wed Nov 26, 2014 3:46 pm

Your one element will work fine for a start. It just won't be as quick to get up to temp and probably won't strip as fast that's all. My old boiler only had a 2400w element and it used to take a bit over 1hr to get to temp on a 40ltr wash, now with my 2400 and 3600w I'm up to temp in just over30 mins.

Did you have a look at the easy flange thread? All you need is some 6mm copper tube and a tri clamp from mac. You don't need to use the stainless flanges if you don't want. Have a look at a couple of build threads for a few examples. I know there's a couple of photos of easy flanges in my thread if you want.

Keep up the good work mate :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Edit: you can weld your product take off to your pc if you want, you shouldn't need to get into there.
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Re: Rob's 2.5" Pot still build

Postby robduca » Wed Nov 26, 2014 4:32 pm

Pinholes are driving me crazy right now. Once I flap disked the condenser down, there were a couple TINY holes.
But I fix them, and a couple more show up.
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Re: Rob's 2.5" Pot still build

Postby woodduck » Wed Nov 26, 2014 7:55 pm

Re-flux the whole top, then use your flux brush to dab at the holes when the solders hot enough. Just don't get it too hot, use a small flame and take your time. If the flux goes black stop and reclean and reflux. You'll get there mate.
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Re: Rob's 2.5" Pot still build

Postby robduca » Thu Nov 27, 2014 12:29 pm

I THINK I have got the pinholes sorted.
I couldn't see any under pressure.

If there was one left on the top plate of the condenser, what would happen? Would water seep out and end up in the final product or would the alcohol vapour seep through with the water?
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Re: Rob's 2.5" Pot still build

Postby Zak Griffin » Thu Nov 27, 2014 12:50 pm

If you don't fix the pinholes now, you'll regret it forever :laughing-rolling:

I THINK I've got a tiny pinhole in my top plate from when I soldered the elbow onto the top, and it does my head in. :angry-banghead:
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Re: Rob's 2.5" Pot still build

Postby robduca » Thu Nov 27, 2014 3:39 pm

F#*K me. Got rid of the pinholes, soldered on an elbow and there is another one!!
I can't get rid of them. There is still 1 TINY little prick.
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Re: Rob's 2.5" Pot still build

Postby sp0rk » Fri Nov 28, 2014 6:17 am

I found the best solution when you're getting fed up with pinholes is to stick the affected join in a bucket of citric acid/water solution (1-2 tsp per litre) walk away and leave it over night
next morning you're not pissed off anymore, you can hit it with a wire brush in the dremel to clean off any remaining shite and get back to soldering
I was very impatient with my shotty and used way too much soldering trying to just plug leaks, when I should have been patient and cleaned it properly in the first place
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Re: Rob's 2.5" Pot still build

Postby Meatheadinc » Fri Nov 28, 2014 11:03 am

I have had success plugging pin holes using a small nail/centre punch and gently tapping the soft solder
of course some flux and gentle heat will do a better job
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Re: Rob's 2.5" Pot still build

Postby Muppet » Fri Nov 28, 2014 3:20 pm

Looking good Rob! My missus found a keg on a local buy and sell page. $20 from memory... I'll try find the number for you :handgestures-thumbupleft:
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Re: Rob's 2.5" Pot still build

Postby robduca » Sat Nov 29, 2014 4:02 pm

Looks like I will throw the towel in on this.
It was fun playing with this stuff, but I feel the extra money I need to spend on this getting it finished would be better spent on a new still. I need map gas and nozzle, fittings, more solder, hard solder rods, etc.

I have been doing ok on the punt lately so might drag some money out of my accounts and spoil myself for Xmas.
I will be buying a still from 5star next week.
Just have to decide whether to go with the 4" pot for starters or just lash out and get a bubbler.
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Re: Rob's 2.5" Pot still build

Postby robduca » Sat Nov 29, 2014 4:04 pm

Muppet wrote:Looking good Rob! My missus found a keg on a local buy and sell page. $20 from memory... I'll try find the number for you :handgestures-thumbupleft:


Cheers Muppet.
I was up in perth yesterday to visit one of my greyhounds and my trainer had a keg in his scrap heap. Right place right time. Got it for nothing. And a mate from work had one in his shed he didn't want so scored 2 for free :happy-partydance:
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