Custom built stainless still

Reflux still design and discussion

Re: Custom built stainless still

Postby C2H6O » Mon Jun 30, 2014 3:10 pm

Thats the setup mate, this configuration will have you sorted for both stripping and spirit runs.

Someone may want to correct me on this as im not very familiar but...


For you spirit run you are going to want the ball valve off, run water through hard and hopefully you can maintain full reflux (nothing coming on the product condenser) After you have left it for 45 min for all the different components (acetones and ethanol ect ect) to separate you slowly back off your water using the gate valve until you have a couple of drips per second, then you should be on the money.

When you want to do a stripping run (packing removed), have the gate valve closed so you have no reflux and the ball valve open to the extent that your distillate is coming out at about 20degC.

Looking forward to hearing your results
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Re: Custom built stainless still

Postby Sam. » Mon Jun 30, 2014 3:25 pm

You want to fill the reflux condenser from the bottom and exit at the top :handgestures-thumbupleft:
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Re: Custom built stainless still

Postby hillzabilly » Mon Jun 30, 2014 3:44 pm

Here is another option ,hillzabilly
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Re: Custom built stainless still

Postby SMOKEU » Wed Jul 02, 2014 2:16 pm

I put some vinegar and water in the boiler to clean out the still, and when I close the water off on the gate valve, water leaks out of the top condenser tube where the plastic hose attaches to the steel pipe on the condenser. I've ensured the hose clamps are tight. Any ideas on what to do next?

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Re: Custom built stainless still

Postby dogbreath vodka » Wed Jul 02, 2014 2:25 pm

Make a sleeve/flange to go over the pipe and butt up against the condenser.
Solder it in.
Makes a wider join, harder to crack the solder.
That is if the leak is at the join between the pipe and condenser. :handgestures-thumbupleft:

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Re: Custom built stainless still

Postby SMOKEU » Fri Jul 04, 2014 9:26 am

dogbreath vodka wrote:Make a sleeve/flange to go over the pipe and butt up against the condenser.
Solder it in.
Makes a wider join, harder to crack the solder.
That is if the leak is at the join between the pipe and condenser. :handgestures-thumbupleft:

DBV


Unfortunately I don't have the equipment to do that. Would epoxy putty work?

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Re: Custom built stainless still

Postby pulsetech » Fri Jul 04, 2014 9:30 am

JB Weld will hold it as long as we are only talking about the cooling water. You wouldn't want it in the vapour path.

Autobarn sells if. Great stuff
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Re: Custom built stainless still

Postby dogbreath vodka » Fri Jul 04, 2014 9:53 am

Give it a go.
If it doesn't work.... scrape it off and give it to someone that has some tools for repairing your PC.

It is only a temporary fix though.

You would be better of getting it done properly.
Nothing beats a good solder join and lots of surface area for the solder to hold onto.
That's why you flange the end and sleeve the pipe. :handgestures-thumbupleft:


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Re: Custom built stainless still

Postby SMOKEU » Fri Jul 04, 2014 10:05 am

Thanks guys, I'll try JBWeld for now before trying a permanent fix later on. It's not in the vapour path, only the cooling water.
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Re: Custom built stainless still

Postby hillzabilly » Fri Jul 04, 2014 12:38 pm

SMOKEU wrote:Thanks guys, I'll try JBWeld for now before trying a permanent fix later on. It's not in the vapour path, only the cooling water.

If ya go for the patch up DO NOT leave the still unattended,yeah it s only cooling water but if ya useing gas and the join fails vapour from the condencer could be set allight :scared-eek: or electric stuff does not like to be sprayed with water,cheers hillzabilly
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Re: Custom built stainless still

Postby P3T3rPan » Fri Jul 04, 2014 1:49 pm

Ok. in 46 years of fixing peoples plumbing fuck ups I have yet to see one of these "easy' fix methods last.
Even some really expensive ones :-B
The cheapest fix is the proper one that you only have to do once. Even if you have to pay for it to be done properly it will be cheaper in the end
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Re: Custom built stainless still

Postby SBB » Fri Jul 04, 2014 1:56 pm

Thats good advise in those last two posts, Is it worth doing a bodgey job when you consider the safety side of things?
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Re: Custom built stainless still

Postby P3T3rPan » Fri Jul 04, 2014 1:58 pm

:text-+1:
Even water can cost you a shitload of money if it gets away on you
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Re: Custom built stainless still

Postby SMOKEU » Sun Jul 06, 2014 4:25 pm

I got hold of a stainless fabricator who's doing a weekend cash job on the still for me, so I'll pick it up on Monday and hopefully it will be sorted.
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Re: Custom built stainless still

Postby hillzabilly » Mon Jul 07, 2014 11:16 am

Sometimes you have to go backwards to move forwards,you may like to check wether those blue seals between sections are alcohol tolerant.This story mirrors my distilling start ,bought a still spent 6 months makin it work pluss extra dollars,nearly quit then found this site .sounds like you are onto it ,she will be producin soon enough.patiece patience cheers hillzabilly
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Re: Custom built stainless still

Postby SMOKEU » Mon Jul 07, 2014 5:04 pm

hillzabilly wrote:Sometimes you have to go backwards to move forwards,you may like to check wether those blue seals between sections are alcohol tolerant.This story mirrors my distilling start ,bought a still spent 6 months makin it work pluss extra dollars,nearly quit then found this site .sounds like you are onto it ,she will be producin soon enough.patiece patience cheers hillzabilly


I'm starting to regret this still as it's cost far more than I expected to get it running, and I have a new leak now between the condenser outlet and cooling hose. I'll buy a smaller hose and that should sort it as hose clamps aren't helping. I better get this thing to produce 95%ABV spirit, even if it's very slow to do it.

Is cork a good material to use as a thermometer bung?

Also, how long should I air the spirit out for before sealing the lid on the storage container? Do I water it down to 40%ABV before airing it?
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Re: Custom built stainless still

Postby hillzabilly » Tue Jul 08, 2014 10:19 am

Try reading this viewtopic.php?f=57&t=2859 most bottle corks are not solid cork,they can be made from small bits of cork that are glued together(glue no good ).I would get silicon bung from the HBS.cheers hillzabilly
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Re: Custom built stainless still

Postby SBB » Tue Jul 08, 2014 11:03 am

This link will also help, you wont want to use the processed cork.
viewtopic.php?f=20&t=6423&p=111215#p111215
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Re: Custom built stainless still

Postby woodduck » Tue Jul 08, 2014 12:01 pm

HI smoku
Not sure where you are but I'm in sa. I am a boilermaker by trade and have a tig welder I'd be happy to do a quick fix up job for ya. No charge. I don't want to see you give up.so if you get desperate let me know.
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Re: Custom built stainless still

Postby SMOKEU » Tue Jul 08, 2014 4:05 pm

I read those posts on cork, and that makes sense. I'll try to find some natural cork.

I fired up the still today with a 12%ABV tomato paste wash, and no matter how much water I run through the still, the alcohol pours out far too quickly, it's a fast, steady stream that only starts dripping once into the tails. The cooling water that comes out of the still feels cold. The heads came out at 92%ABV, and the hearts at 91%ABV. The lower part of the column has 2 copper scrubbers in it. The top part of the column has stainless steel scrubbers, all the way from the bottom of that section, up to the water jackets.

Is it worth plumbing the bottom cooling hoses up, the ones that are on the bottom section of the tower? Or do I need to find a way to reduce the power output of the element? It's a 1.4kW element according to my power meter, and this still just feels overpowered.

woodduck wrote:HI smoku
Not sure where you are but I'm in sa. I am a boilermaker by trade and have a tig welder I'd be happy to do a quick fix up job for ya. No charge. I don't want to see you give up.so if you get desperate let me know.


Thanks for the offer! I'll contact you if I need any repairs.
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