equipment: 4" perf. plate bubbler,2 1/2" pot with a triple wall liebig, Small 8L pot for experiments & Gin, 6Kw 80ltr electric boiler , P.I.D/PWM controller 1/2 share with SBB in a 3" boka,
McStill wrote:our reducers in larger sizes require a joiner, the bigger end of them is always pipe size and not a female fitting :handgestures-thumbdown:
yeah that's so stupid its dumb... bloody thieves whoever thought that up....
thanks for helping out with the pics guys, saves me taking a photo and uploading it :handgestures-thumbupleft:
I reckon one of them big pipe expanders would pay for it self, in ya just expand the pipe an slip the reducer in = saved dollars @ $15-20 a sleeve , you would get ya money back in no time
equipment: 4" perf. plate bubbler,2 1/2" pot with a triple wall liebig, Small 8L pot for experiments & Gin, 6Kw 80ltr electric boiler , P.I.D/PWM controller 1/2 share with SBB in a 3" boka,
hi all newbe jimbo here reading your wows on connecting a keg to colum I had same problems. the above place has great prices on ferrals and tri clamps all such things. I've done both and found good reasons do do both I'm using a 3" ferrels on a 3" reflux and used a tailpipe expander for 2.5" just so I didn't have to weld so much at 65.00 an oz silv soldier gets expensive . takes about 1 hour of expanding and annealling to get a good tight fit using the expander. I'm no expert at any of this but did get some good advice about silver soldering to put ring of soldier on then heat instead of heating and feeding rod as it heats I got some oxidation on ss that in the future I'll shield the ss with argon to help limit sugaring hope it helps jim