Aussiedistiller, Home Distilling, Moonshine, Home Brew

Hi all, I started off running a T500 last November, yes the T500 has its faults, but I'm sure I would have never got started without this neat little unit.

First of all I'd like to say I'm a fussy bugger when it come to what I drink, quality over quantity, making tight cuts and doing multiple passes was the norm for me. I always ran this unit a wee bit slower than some, around 600-700ml/h was about right to get good product (for me anyway) when running a charge of strip at around 40AVB.

Now onto the subject - I firmly believe one of the biggest problems with the T500 is the boiler is too powerful for such a small column, I understand it's been developed to be super simple to use, but it's running way under potential.
I modded my boiler to have a phase angle power controller - and used this in conjunction with a power monitor so I could repeat my results.



I would let the still heat up on full power, mine runs at about 1850w not 2kw as stated. Then I would turn down to 900w, stabilise for half an hour, then pull off the fores and heads really slowly over an hour or so.
Once the heads were gone I would then power up to around 1100w, re-equalise for 15mins then I could run the hearts out between 1.2 and 1.6l/h the output would be the same ABV as running on full power and having to pull off at half the speed, the quality was indistinguishable from using it normally.

One thing to remember is with each power level, the cooling temp is different, at 900W my cooling would be around 80oC and at 1100w it would be in the low to mid 60's. (before power control, running on full power I would shoot for 50-55oC cooling) I have done full runs on 900w, but ran into problems with hot output as i was having to run so little cooling to the reflux, if I split out the cooling lines to run the condenser separately, I'm sure running on less than 1100w would be fine, but this worked for me.

I by no means cracked this - with a little experimentation I'm sure someone out there could come up with a definitive method of running that would maximize output and quality, I moved on to a different still before I had any more time to try things out.
Just find a power level that works for you, and take notes of the cooling temps, so you can run the same way on future runs - running with a parrot really helps when you're trying to suss out whats working.
I hope this gives some of the T500 users out there some ideas.

Great post :clap: :clap:
Could you give us an insight into how you did the mod and the parts needed.

You can build a controller for not a lot of $$$ if you have the know how - there are good threads on this subject on a few sites. I lucky found one on eBay for less than I could build it from scratch.

Basically all I did was take the plug off the still, wired the flex into the output terminals , then wired a bit of heavy duty flex onto the plug and wired it to the input terminals + the common earth. It came with a wiring diagram. A bit of tape to cover the terminals.

This unit can handle 10amps without an additional heat sink - the still pulls 7.7amps (2000w / 240v = 7.7amps) Its good to have at least 10% safety margin.
The energy monitor was from a local electrical chain called maplin, a bit like radio shack in the US, no idea what the Aus equivalent is.

Btw - the 7.7amps should have been 1850x/240v not 2kw as stated :doh:

would a temperature contolller be a better option that keeps or moves the temperature be worth all the effort of building ?

Al Qaemist wrote:Hi all, I started off running a T500 last November, yes the T500 has its faults, but I'm sure I would have never got started without this neat little unit.

First of all I'd like to say I'm a fussy bugger when it come to what I drink, quality over quantity, making tight cuts and doing multiple passes was the norm for me. I always ran this unit a wee bit slower than some, around 600-700ml/h was about right to get good product (for me anyway) when running a charge of strip at around 40AVB.

Now onto the subject - I firmly believe one of the biggest problems with the T500 is the boiler is too powerful for such a small column, I understand it's been developed to be super simple to use, but it's running way under potential.
I modded my boiler to have a phase angle power controller - and used this in conjunction with a power monitor so I could repeat my results.



I would let the still heat up on full power, mine runs at about 1850w not 2kw as stated. Then I would turn down to 900w, stabilise for half an hour, then pull off the fores and heads really slowly over an hour or so.
Once the heads were gone I would then power up to around 1100w, re-equalise for 15mins then I could run the hearts out between 1.2 and 1.6l/h the output would be the same ABV as running on full power and having to pull off at half the speed, the quality was indistinguishable from using it normally.

One thing to remember is with each power level, the cooling temp is different, at 900W my cooling would be around 80oC and at 1100w it would be in the low to mid 60's. (before power control, running on full power I would shoot for 50-55oC cooling) I have done full runs on 900w, but ran into problems with hot output as i was having to run so little cooling to the reflux, if I split out the cooling lines to run the condenser separately, I'm sure running on less than 1100w would be fine, but this worked for me.

I by no means cracked this - with a little experimentation I'm sure someone out there could come up with a definitive method of running that would maximize output and quality, I moved on to a different still before I had any more time to try things out.
Just find a power level that works for you, and take notes of the cooling temps, so you can run the same way on future runs - running with a parrot really helps when you're trying to suss out whats working.
I hope this gives some of the T500 users out there some ideas.

Only just getting used to this mailing type stuff but here goes. It would be possible to manufacture a controller to keep the boiler temp at the ideal level by using a temp sensor that feeds back to the power controller and I'm sure you guys have seen lots of these pid type controllers on here although they can be expensive and hard to set up. If I designed a simple device that you just plug into that controls your boilers to keep an exact temperature would it be worth the effort. In theory it would be possible to automate the whole process fairly easily with a few temp sensors and water flow controls and some simple purpose built software routines specific for the brewing process. If anybody wants to suggest some ideas I can look at designing a system like the T500 but fully automated with simple user controls. Will be starting my own still soon and really looking forward to it as we already brew our own beers having some moonshine too will be great. Cheers Cath & Steve from pommy land

Steve,

You do not run a still by regulating boiler temp. This is why no one has designed such a contoller.
Build a still and start playing, all will become clear :)

Panda.

Panda wrote:Steve,

You do not run a still by regulating boiler temp. This is why no one has designed such a contoller.
Build a still and start playing, all will become clear :)

Panda.

+1

All noobs take note :handgestures-thumbupleft:

The sensor would not have to be in the boiler it could be placed in the vapour path.

Steve, one thing to consider is that all builds with the possibility of automation and therefore the possibility of people walking away from them, should contain auto shutoff mechanisms. So you'd also need an over temp circuit or something else if say the cooling water was shutoff for some reason.

Hi Stevo - another brit ! - if running a reflux still I believe any controllers normally control the take off valve and not the power to the boiler - you want the power to be fairly constant. I have no experience with any of the E-arc type stills, but a good VM needs so little adjustment (although you have to get off your arse and turn the valve :D ) that it "almost" runs it self.

I only make a handful of adjustment on mine - mostly when coming out of the heads, and coming into the tails - for most of the run I don't touch it bar checking the cooling is running okay. A good book is needed - as its quite dull really :?

Al Q