New Build

[Hardie355]

Hi Guys,
Im thinkg of doing a 3" boka as my first build (first still) and grabbed about 3m of copper from work. from what I have read on here they produce good quality and are reasonably easy to build (correct me if im wrong). so what im after is a plan with measurements if they are crucial for a 3".
Im thinking of using brass unions to join sections together, I have read people don't like brass but I was planning on tinning the inside with solder?
Am I on the right track or way off, I can handle criticism.

[Muppet]

This thread has some good explanations about boka's
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=3114
If you have a poke around in this section you should find all the info you are after :handgestures-thumbupleft:
If your interested in making neutrals a 3" boka is the perfect place to start mate

[Hardie355]

Thanks Mate,
that's the one ive been reading through but wondering if I scale up for 3" or just run with it.

[Meatheadinc]

I have used brass unions, they work well and are easy to assemble breakdown.

boka union.jpg

The are very heavy and expensive ($35+couple years back( local plumbing supplies)). pic shows a 2".

For less money and weight, tri clamps union would be my choice. (and makes it compatible with bought stills)

[Hardie355]

Hi Guys,
Happy New Year
Im back from holidays and am planning on starting the 3" boka tomorrow. Ive got the tube, cap, keg, and ss needle valves are on the way i just have a few questions for you.

1. I have about 30m of 6mm copper would this be ok for a condenser I was thinking 300mm long double helix? or should I fork out for 10mm? cold water temp in mackay atm is 26c.

2. what sort of element/s should I use and do I need a controller? I have access to a tig so bungs are not a problem.

3. should I put a temp probe in the keg?

4. the packed section will be about 1400mm what should I use for packing and where would I source it?

Thanks in advance,

[BIG D]

Hi Hardie are you going with slant plates or double reducer?

[Hardie355]

I'm going with the slant plate design seems simple enough.
Is the an advantage / Disadvantage to either Big D?

[Meatheadinc]

1. I have about 30m of 6mm copper would this be ok for a condenser I was thinking 300mm long double helix? or should I fork out for 10mm? cold water temp in mackay atm is 26c.2. what sort of element/s should I use and do I need a controller? I have access to a tig so bungs are not a problem.3. should I put a temp probe in the keg?4. the packed section will be about 1400mm what should I use for packing and where would I source it?

1> 6mm will work. long lengths can add backpressure. not a problem on mains water but can create issues on recycled water. Suggest if using a double coil on a pump, to use a 3/8 or bigger cold finger and run both coils in parallel to reduce backpressure .

2. For a keg you will want 2400w or better. controller may be needed pending element size. 2400w on 3" boka will be fine without controller. Bigger elements and controller will be a bonus.

3. Temp probe in the keg is not relevant for distillation but lets you know when things are heating up

4. Mac has some great copper packing, or use SS scrubbies, you could try scoria ( lava rock/bbq rocks)

I'm going with the slant plate design seems simple enough.Is the an advantage / Disadvantage to either

Not really, it is personal preference. slant plate has more cutting and soldering but cheaper fittings, the double reducer is neat with less cutting but fittings can be expensive.

[Hardie355]

Thanks Meatheadinc,

You got me thinking now maybe a single 1/2" coil with a 1" or 1 1/4" cold finger might be the go iv'e got plenty of coiled 1/2 laying around. what do you think?
With the element I might just run 2 2400w and switch one off when up to temp.
For the packing I might try a mix of all three and see how that goes, all copper mesh would cost me a mint.
The more I read and the more my questions are answered the more my plan changes which is a good thing :handgestures-thumbupleft:
Thanks

[Zak Griffin]

The copper mesh may be the most expensive to buy initially, but all reports say that it's a far superior packing medium than anything else :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[Urrazeb]

The copper mesh may be the most expensive to buy initially, but all reports say that it's a far superior packing medium than anything else :handgestures-thumbupleft:

:text-+1: I wouldn't pack with anything else.

[Hardie355]

So pack the Whole 1500 with copper?
At a guess how many KG do you think I would need for a 3" ?

Cheers

[Urrazeb]

My 4in 500mm column has 2.7kg of mesh.

Have a look here
viewtopic.php?f=56&t=5953&p=131229#p131229

[MacStill]

Should be able to work out how much copper mesh is needed from this post

viewtopic.php?f=56&t=5953#p99593

:handgestures-thumbupleft:

[BIG D]

I'm going with the slant plate design seems simple enough.
Is the an advantage / Disadvantage to either Big D?

Sorry for the slow reply but from my experience if I was to build another boka I would use the double reducer method both ways work fine I just believe double reducer method is more robust :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[Hardie355]

Hi All,
So I had a play this afternoon and made this condenser its 300mm long 3/8 coil and 40mm cold finger.
Hoping this will do the trick. ????????????

Cheers

[MacStill]

I reckon that ought to do the trick nicely :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[Zak Griffin]

Nice coil! Should do the trick :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[Hardie355]

So I wrapped a 1/4" coil around some 40mm it fit nice between the 40mm cold finger and 3/8 coil.
Wondering what your thoughts are should I weld it in or not worry about it?

Thanks.

[Hardie355]

Here is another sot of the 1/4" coil its a bit rough though.