Aussiedistiller, Home Distilling, Moonshine, Home Brew

So after few months im keen to turn my hand to building my own have a bit more time free than i had in the beggining so would like a better setup and something can run as a good pot not a ss auper reflux. So ive been given a coil and since copper is so expensive. Im hunting 3" stainless. My plan is 3" stainless slant boka cut in half with copper coil, plaTes, packing and collection pipe leibig etc. Ao only column would be atainless. My question is in pot mode there would b little copper should i look at a 1mtr length of copper to use as unpacked section or would it be ok using empty stainless with the little copper in its path? Thanks guys will draw up some plans etc at a later date

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Sorry does my question not make sense to anyone?

copper is beneficial in the up hill vapour path for the removal of sulphides,

Sulphides will vary from wash/ mash to wash/ mash and will be much higher in cheap commercial wine than a sugar wash.

many people operate full SS still with no copper and enjoy there product

Personally I would be adding some copper to the system

a small roll of packing in the riser under the pot head should do.

Thanks meathead. Wont be a problem when making neutral will have bottom half of column fully packed but would like to try mac rum recipe and didn't want to spoil it by not having copper in the rig at all when in pot mode. Will place a loose wad of copper packing in the vapour path i think when running like a pot. Just to help.

So far ive spent $20 and have a 1.6mtr high boka column and a double helix 1/4 coil. Both thanks to forum members

I know you all wanted it begging for it so I caved here's my budget picture for a budget build
Is there any right or wrong about how high to have the plates?

**please note the pen forgot to draw in the temp probe port but it will be there under top plate**

Wont let me edit so posting again. Budget will be $100 see how i achieve. Have to go from standard keg to 4" ferule also planning ahead :)

Is 1" too big for the outer of a liebig with 1/2" through it. Wondering if it would effect water efficiency through coil. Just seems theres lots of different sizes in the skip bin

1" over 1/2" will be fine mate.

The leibig on a Boka isn't absolutely critical, it just helps get the product down to a reasonable temperature ;-)

Thanks zak yeah realise that will look mighty cool but didnt want looks to overcome performance. Sick of trying to work out abv on warm gear. Thinking i might put a thermometer probe into the path of the parot will see what happens working all this weekend so things are on hold

G-day Mad ,may I suggest ya put a 3/4 tri clamp connection on the ,colomn to product cooler support ,and on the end of the product cooler to the parrot,easy cleaning ,adjust parrot position left or right ,serviceing valve ,smaller pack up .cheers hillzabilly

Make your product condensor at least 1 metre long. You'll need that to properly cool the output when running it in a fast pot still mode.
Another way is to get a long strip of copper the fits the half inch tube, put a helical twist in it and poke it up the condensor, it creates a much better contact between the vapour and the cooling jacket.
A shotgun condensor works much better than a leibig, consider that. It should still fit within your budget if buying copper from a scrap metal dealer.

Has been suggested to make a pot type top to slip on the 3" with few bend pieces and have a 2" shotty connected to it for running pot mode. Would run much better than boka style pot?
Reflux when your talking product condensor ur meaning the leibig not the coil correct? Just had to read it twice as got lost. Got to talk to my boss today have found what looks to be 2" down the very bottom of a full skip as its not just few little bits need to get the ok to take it if i can even get it out....

Hillz like the suggestion functional will b highly considered

Mad wrote:Has been suggested to make a pot type top to slip on the 3" with few bend pieces and have a 2" shotty connected to it for running pot mode. Would run much better than boka style pot?
Reflux when your talking product condensor ur meaning the leibig not the coil correct? Just had to read it twice as got lost. Got to talk to my boss today have found what looks to be 2" down the very bottom of a full skip as its not just few little bits need to get the ok to take it if i can even get it out....

Hillz like the suggestion functional will b highly considered

The product condensor is the last one before your product drips into your receptical.
If you have the parts, it's better to make up a pot still column. If you make your still in a modular style, you can use the same product condensor for both configurations.
After I built a 800mm long 2 inch shotty with 4 half inch tubes inside I haven't looked back. The leibig just couldn't cope on a fast pot still run. Now I can strip with all four gas rings blazing and the shotty is hot to 3/4 of the way down but still produces a cool product with a 4mm thick stream. The 1.2 metre leibig can only do the 2 inner rings but not at full gas flow.
The only trouble is that the connectors for making everything modular will most likely take you over your budget unless you can do the easy flange thing.

Yeah my aim is definatly A.modular style setup Particularly now i just got 2x 1.6mtr lengths of 2" will make the boka then make a 3"-2" pot top to a 2" shotty. Was thinking easy flanges will just see how i go

wow its been a while. I haven't really made much progress last 6months kind of flying by living life and doing other things. HOWEVER recent turn of events have made me realise this needs to happen and is the quickest improvment with biggest benifit I can make so I got the ball back rolling. I might not have been building but I have been collecting. I have copper pipe for a 2" shotgun condensor with 4 or 5 1/2tubes inside all cut haven't a clue how I will do reducing cones yet as my skills are pathetic (just ask rumdiddly whos already bailed me out) I've got 2 3" stainless sections for the body, today I cut the 2 plates havent cut the folding tabs out as yet., have my condensor, have some 1/2" stainless tube for take off and also a 1/2" needle valve on it's way which I'll use compression stainless fittings on. I'm looking at using an electronic thermometer (rtd) basically because I have the room in the control box for it and secondly I wont have to rely on batteries that always catch me out it, also works out about $20 more so it's not exactly budget blowing.

The budget of $100 wouldn't be acheivable for most and I think I'll go over myself just rough adding looks to be about $150 mostly will be spent on ferrules and tri clamps, but in saying that this build is taking so long because I'm waiting for good deals or freebies to appear I don't want to imagin the cost without them.

just a few things I'm gathering

So did my last bit of purchasing for this build. All that's outstanding is copper or ss packing once it's built. Grand total of $112 now to put it all together and make something useful. Again must re iterate that without almost all of the metal and fittings being free this wouldn't be possible

Ok boys and girls!!!! Firstly sorry this threads been dead. Ive been doing a lot of other things and as such havent done many pics slong the way. But..... some magic happend
3" stainless 1600mm tall boka cut in half to compartmentalise the whole lot. The plates are 2mm stainless plate the condensor is 190mm long 1/4 double coil. 4 barrel (1/2") 2" Shotgun PC fully copper down to a 1"parrot and bleed valve. Shotty is really designed for the next build but my thought was why not make the most of it instead of building a lieberg and a shotty.... total overkill but looks cool as.

Few names require special mention in this build. Ben for the stainless tube who got this whole project rolling for me and Rumdiddly who without the thought bouncing and his copper skills i would only have the stainless part of this build.!! Bit more tinkering and wiring up the RTD i should atleast get a cleaning run done over the weekend. Then start building a dolly to move it around the shed.!!

Ive got a lot of pressure build up fom the condensor coil n its causing leaks further down at the tap and hose end. Im assuming is just from the reduction to from 3/4 garden hose to 1/4" coil. Any info or suggestions would be much appreciated

Don't know the answers to your questions I'm afraid mate but I have to say that this looks like a mighty fine rig!