Aussiedistiller, Home Distilling, Moonshine, Home Brew

With the availability of 2-4" copper very low in my vicinity would it be worth while building a still from stainless steel? I'd pack it with copper and have a copper condenser sitting in the top. My only concern would be the outlet and the product condenser. Ive not thought those through yet.

I have more experience with stainless than copper and can TIG so its no impossible.

Thanks

Staino's the tits man! If you can tig it up you're set! :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Yea man i cant tig but if i could i would do stainless, all copper for me as all i can do is solder n braze

Ill have to backpurge to prevent the stainless from sugaring but thats not a show stopper.

As a rough guide how long does the vapor condenser need to be? Come to thing of it how big does the liquid outlet have to be? Does anyone have any pics of their 4" stills please?

Are you certain you only ever want to make nuteral? If so have you decided what design? Cooling vapour or liquid management? Read all the other reflux build threads and you should start to get a handle on how to do it .

Yeah pretty set on neutrals although someone mentioned oils the other day. I'll be going for VM

Plenty of great VM builds on here, read up heaps and you'll be set.
Condenser specs really change depending on design and power input.

I'm with maddogpearse make sure neutral is all you want otherwise go bubbler so you can do neutral or rum whiskey or even gin all in one...

I've been looking at bubblers thinking hmmmmm.......but is it too much for a newbie? I guess more research is needed

I want one bad, doing a bubbler as a newbie means you start at the top rather than starting at bottom and working your way up :handgestures-thumbupleft: Although if you go reflux/ pot/ bubbler (plate still) than you end up with an awesome understanding of how distillation works..

There's the huge difference in time to fabricate and the extra cost of materials to consider. I'm guessing a reflux can be done over a weekend while a bubbler is going to take considerably longer due to more intricate parts.
Food for thought I guess

:text-+1: what he said! I made a pot, and now I'm using all the components to make a bubbler. You can do the same with a VM still. Ie make a shotty, not a lieberg condenser, and make it modular.

To the bubbles section I go :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Good idea mate, if you've got the skills to knock out a reflux in a weekend then a bubbler won't take you much longer :handgestures-thumbupleft:

There's slot more welding in a bubbler but I won't have to setup a plug for the backpurge. I can just apply argon to the backside via pipe.
The other option is pay $200 for complete sections. But where's the fun in that

So my plan for now is to build a 4" modular still. When funds permit ill be upgrading to bubbler but right now I want to get moving.

I have a 50ltr keg ready for slicing and dicing. The still will consist of the following
500x100mm packed section
100x100mm containing the slanted plates. 50mm outlet
300x100mm shotty reflux condenser
500x50mm product cooler

Would this work?

I have a 50ltr keg ready for slicing and dicing. The still will consist of the following
500x100mm packed section
100x100mm containing the slanted plates. 50mm outlet
300x100mm shotty reflux condenser
500x50mm product cooler

Why slant plate LM ?
What are you planning on for a valve. ?
I have a 4" boka head and have a 1/2" take off and valve.
A 50mm take off would be better suited to a VM and would use all the components you list minus the slant plates.

Meatheadinc wrote:

I have a 50ltr keg ready for slicing and dicing. The still will consist of the following
500x100mm packed section
100x100mm containing the slanted plates. 50mm outlet
300x100mm shotty reflux condenser
500x50mm product cooler

Why slant plate LM ?
What are you planning on for a valve. ?
I have a 4" boka head and have a 1/2" take off and valve.
A 50mm take off would be better suited to a VM and would use all the components you list minus the slant plates.

Dunno why a slant plate LM. I suppose that's exactly why i'm here. To learn from the knowledge here
I've been looking at gate valves on ebay in china.
I could do with drawing it up to get an idea of whats what

300x100mm rc :wtf: I would shorten it up a fair amount otherwise it would take 20min or so to adjust.

rumdidlydum wrote:300x100mm rc :wtf: I would shorten it up a fair amount otherwise it would take 20min or so to adjust.

isnt this a LM or boka build? or has it evolved onto something else? or am i in the wrong thread. im drunk typing at the moment :obscene-drinkingchug:

or.....

maybe its a 12" RC at 100mm high :laughing-rolling:

we need a da da tiss icon smile thingy ma bob :O)



Oh i see, just re read. wow thats a big shotty RC, im doing 150mm and thats alot