WTDist T500 Modification

[WTDist]

Hey guys

So I've started my journey now to modify my BROKEN T500 crap. I have 2 ideas that I will follow with, one being cheaper than the other which is probably going to be the one i do.

Im unsure if this should be in the Reflux stills thread or Pot stills thread?

One is using my existing T500 Column and reflux coil but removing the plastic cap and condenser and replacing it with 2 90° copper bends (clamped so i can adjust collection height) going into the new condenser with inner tube being 1/2" and the outer tube 1". I'm open for suggestions with the condenser as I'm wondering if 3/4" outer and 1/2" inner tube is sufficient at 800mm long. Im aiming for a reflux column that can be bypassed to be used as a simple pot still.

The second is replacing the original column altogether cutting it a couple of inches from the bottom and soldering 2" copper pipe to the stainless steel. I would also then add a new better coil than the T500 and have the inlet and outlet for these at the top.

I'm on a low budget here so the first is the most likely but if i find along the way that i can afford a few more dollars then the new column will be in play.

So far my parts list for the still is (keeping T500 column)

2 x 2" 90° bends
2" to 1/2" reducer
2 x (1" x 1" x 1") Tee (unless i find something better)
1 length of 1" copper pipe (i think i saw some in 1200 mm lengths at Bunnings)
1 length of 1/2" copper pipe
1/4 inch copper tube (for flange)
Clamp for 90° bend joint (im unsure if a clamp is all i need here or if im missing something)

I will organize the water control down the track, for now the still has my attention. The build will take me a while, I still need to read up on soldering and gather parts over time. The missus hates me distilling and will halt me as much as she can (thinks i love this hobby more than her 8-} )but she knows i need to make a new still.

Below are the 2 designs i have come up with.

new still-new column.jpg

new still.jpg

Ill make sure i add pics as i go :handgestures-thumbupleft: but don't expect a speedy start.
Thanks for all the helpful information on this site and support i have found since i became a member.

Cheers
WTDist

[benpandaae86]

Shes called a hybrid

Have a look here
http://aussiedistiller.com.au/viewtopic ... d&start=20

[rumdidlydum]

I rekon your on to a winner with Keeping your old column 1 its cheaper 2 you don't have to buy 2inch pipe. I highly recommend getting a tri clamp for the adjustable 90 degree bends. Also only make the liberg as long as it needs to be because of weight on the thin lid. Your sizes of the liberg look good though :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[rumdidlydum]

To do neutral you could just repack the column but you would need a disc with holes to stop the packing going into the 90deg?

[WTDist]

Cheers rumdidlyum

I was concerned about the weight of the condenser also as i saw in your build thread that the lid was flimsy, Ive also noticed this just with the original T500 on occasion. Never know i may have to stabilize like you did. :handgestures-thumbupleft:
I plan on getting a few parts from 5star. I was thinking of making easy flanges on the 90* bends and using a tri-clamp with a seal. both from 5 star i think. still looking at options.

EDIT
yea i was thinking perforated plate at top of column. forgot to put it into the design

[WTDist]

Just picked up the two new 2" 90deg bends from Trade link in Brissy for $21.34 if anyone in the area is interested in 2" 90deg copper bends. Also got quoted $51 per meter for new 2" copper.

Looking at my condenser plan im wondering if 1" with 1/4" at 800 is good enough for the boiler lid, and i like shotgun condensers.
Im now wondering if i should make the condenser 1" at 500mm with 7 inner tubes of 1/4". I was looking at this thread http://www.aussiedistiller.com.au/viewtopic.php?t=5535&p=93129
I was thinking about 2" condenser but my budget might not allow for 7 inner tubes of 1/2" and 2" outer tube at this time.
I don't think i can go over 500 mm as it is positioned over the boiler lid. Only way to make it longer would be to raise the first 90deg bend some length with a piece of 2" copper just to give it a bit more height.

Does 500 mm 1" with 7 x 4" inner tubes sound good to anyone. :-? im after water and cooling efficiency with reduced size and stability


also i was thinking about soldering the 2 90deg bends in place and putting a triclamp on where the T500 column top meets the first 90deg bend so i can ditch the column when i can afford to replace it with copper.

copper bends.jpg

condenser ends.jpg

newcndenser.png

Advice on the condenser and criticism welcome :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Cheers

[rumdidlydum]

You could put an easy flange on the 2 90deg's so you can offset the condenser. To clear the boiler.
A mini shoty would be scmhicko i reakon. But remember about weight on the lid.
Also think into the future, do you see yourself upgrading? You could use what you have already built. But the budget always wins.

I look forward to seeing the progress :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[woodduck]

To be honest I've never seen a micro shotty. Not sure if it will work but i can't see why not. In theory if you have 7 tubes 500 long it would be equivalent to 1 piece 3.5 mtrs long, thats a fair bit of cooling area.it probably won't have huge knock down power but if it does what you need it too i recon go for it Cause I'd love to see it.

Good luck with it :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[WTDist]

Picked up a length of 2" today for a 2 inch shotty with 7 inner tubes of 1/2" (ill made a support for the extra weight) and my new propane torch from Bunnings. not to much to get now.

index.jpg

[woodduck]

Bugger i was looking forward to seeing if the micro shotty worked.

[WTDist]

:-D yea me too although that was because i didnt want to pay $51 meter for 2" which is what made me go the 1" in the first place.
i picked this lone up for 10$ at murrarie scrap. Its only for the outer pipe so its cheaper than the 1". although i now need 3.6 or so meters of 1/2" that ill prob get at tradlink or something.

i should have gotten more though. there scales go up in 1kg lots, and they round up. i could have gotten at least twice as much for the same price :angry-banghead:

[WTDist]

So i drilled my ends ruff as guts but trying to do this in between looking after kids wasn't easy. I ended up going 5 inner tubes of 1/2" as i didnt make a template and then i figured this would really handle 2000W T500 boiler easy as anyway. all i need to do now is pick up the rest of the 1/2" my solder and im good to go :D

Heres my ends. not pretty but ill post everything, not the cuts though :laughing-rolling: got 3 and a burn so far since saturday

ends.png

Tried my Irwin snips, wont do it so looks like im grinding these out gently

[P3T3rPan]

Be aware that plumbing waste bends are not 90 degrees
They are 88 degrees to allow for fall in plumbing waste pipes
You can "fudge" it though
Or anneal the lot after brazing and pull it a little. This might end in disaster if you are not experienced with copper :-B

[WTDist]

Be aware that plumbing waste bends are not 90 degrees
They are 88 degrees to allow for fall in plumbing waste pipes
You can "fudge" it though
Or anneal the lot after brazing and pull it a little. This might end in disaster if you are not experienced with copper :-B

Cheers for this info. i wont bother annealing or bending, im a complete newbie to copper and soldering. Been 13 years since i picked up any oxy or welding equipment in general. ill just take this into my calculations and maybe draw a more up to scale (of the 90deg bends) drawing in auto cad.
My condenser is cut at about 500mm so using trigonometry with the 4 degree difference i found that the bottom of my condenser will be sitting 34.96mm closer to my column than if they were perfect 90degree bends. Glad Ive taken (and are to take more of) those advanced maths classes :-B . hmm :think: this is a good start to my engineering career :laughing-rolling:
Im going to add a small piece of 2" in between the bends to move them apart slightly, maybe 35mm to adjust for the bends? im not sure. I wanted to try to make an easy flange with this piece of 2" im adding in. Ill make them like ferrules hopefully but this is if i get the chance to, otherwise it will be a straight out join not to be removed (most likely option). I dont plan on using anything from this still In the distant future when i upgrade. When i upgrade ill upgrade the condenser too :handgestures-thumbupleft:

il cut my inner pipes tonight hopefully and grind out my ends maybe tomorrow :think: Looking after kids really holds me back. Hopefully ill have my shotgun made by next week :pray:

[P3T3rPan]

When you add the piece between is where you can fudge it

[WTDist]

I still dont get it? If i account for the 88degree, then ad a piece spacing them 55 mm apart, then account for the other 88 degree then i still have a good distance? The picture below can represent the edges between the column the bends and the condenser. I accounted for 1deg out for each join of the bends making 4*1deg out. Even with these out of square i can still have it made this way without having problems from what i can see in auto-cad.

Please let me know if im missing something but this seems like a viable solution
measurements are in mm

deg.jpg

[hillzabilly]

With your 1/4inch support bar ,a brass or stainless bolt with a couple of brass nuts soldered to the shotty would give you a bit of adjustment when setting up.cheers hillzabilly :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[WTDist]

With your 1/4inch support bar ,a brass or stainless bolt with a couple of brass nuts soldered to the shotty would give you a bit of adjustment when setting up.cheers hillzabilly :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Cheers hilzabilly thats a good idea. i can wind it up to suit. ill have to look into that. i think the end of the condenser will be preety close to the boiler lid from what i have seen so far, just by holding parts rufly in their place to get an idea :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[hillzabilly]

Going from 2inch to 1/4inch on the end of the shotty is tricky as very few plumbers supplys have fittings smaller than 1/2inch,air con mob use them,I see useing 1/2inch outlet as much easier ,2inch -1inch reducer,1inch-1/2inch elbow,then a piece of 1/2inch tube long enough to suit your collection position,if it floods or surge's 1/4inch outlet may not allow the pressure change quick enough ,just a thought.cheers hillzabilly

[WTDist]

I probabaly should have mentioned im going to use the 1/2" after the shotty. going to have ofcuts ill use for that. cheers for the concern :handgestures-thumbupleft:

I was looking at the 2" to 1" and 1" to 1/2 reducers but the elbow makes sense. i was going to bend some 1/2" but now that seems like more work for less. elbow for sure with the 1/2" 8-}