WTDist T500 Modification

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Re: WTDist T500 Modification

Postby P3T3rPan » Tue Jun 16, 2015 10:12 am

Find a PVC bend and look at it closely.
On it you will find some numbers
101= type of fitting (bend in this case)
40= size (can be any)
88= angle
so a 101.40.88 is what the lay person calls a 40mm (1.5inch) 90 degree bend
Same with copper plumbing fittings (but no markings to show it)
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Re: WTDist T500 Modification

Postby WTDist » Tue Jun 16, 2015 11:28 am

P3T3rPan wrote:Plumbers out there, am i wrong or right or are they actually 90 degrees???
ROFL
I think you are not seeing it
On a vertical pipe
91 degrees is over square (heading back up)
88 is under square (heading down)
The measurement is of the angle change from straight.
Not the enclosed angle


Ahh i get you, if the flow is vertical going up then 88 degrees will have a fall.

I was looking at it the other way. i was thinking if the flow was going down a pipe then 91 would have been needed to stay going down and 88 being under square would go back up. this is where i thought it would pool.

If the flow is going down a vertical pipe what connection would be used then to still have a fall as 88 degrees is under square. :think:
Kind of like a down pipe with water flowing down. I figured 88 degrees would have this going back up again.

Fair mistake on my part yes. I dont want to look like im arguing, im not really. I just like to know.
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Re: WTDist T500 Modification

Postby P3T3rPan » Tue Jun 16, 2015 11:50 am

No problem and no offence taken
I have been explaining this to apprentices for a long, long, time
Still think you need to re read my last two posts cos in plumbing most of the time we are talking about flow coming down a tube
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Re: WTDist T500 Modification

Postby P3T3rPan » Tue Jun 16, 2015 12:06 pm

Here ya go
Publication1.jpg
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Re: WTDist T500 Modification

Postby Zak Griffin » Tue Jun 16, 2015 12:28 pm

While I'm sure you're right, the top angle in the pic above looks like more than 90°, and the bottom one less than 90° to me...
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Re: WTDist T500 Modification

Postby P3T3rPan » Tue Jun 16, 2015 1:00 pm

Zac if you are making a bend in a straight piece of pipe to fit the top drawing then you would bend the pipe by less than 90 degrees cos if you bent it by more than 90 it would fit the bottom drawing
The angle of change in direction is what matters. Not the enclosed angle
My drawings are not perfect measured degrees but the picture is correct
That's how us plumbers measure it. And the manufacturers agree as I said with the easily verifiable example of a PVC "90" degree bend that is actually 88
I can see where the confusion is. Lay people measure the enclosed angle rather than the change in angle. :-B
Clear as mud?
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Re: WTDist T500 Modification

Postby Zak Griffin » Tue Jun 16, 2015 1:13 pm

:text-thankyoublue: gotcha! Thanks for the explanation :handgestures-thumbupleft:
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Re: WTDist T500 Modification

Postby WTDist » Tue Jun 16, 2015 1:42 pm

P3T3rPan wrote:The angle of change in direction is what matters. Not the enclosed angle


Ahh i see, If im looking at it with x and y axis then the change from 270 degrees to 358 degrees (2 degrees south of 360) is 88 degrees.

Like vectors. The change in the direction of the object/flow, not the inner angle. I think i get it now. I should have known, i covered vectors with x, y and z a few semesters ago. 8-}
This makes much sense now...
so like this pic below i assume?, the pic is ruff as
xy.jpg


P3T3rPan does this mean my shotgun condenser will be gradually moving 4 degrees away from my column (out of level by 4 degrees), the opposite to my other cad drawing where i had it turning towards it? If so then this works much better for me.
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Re: WTDist T500 Modification

Postby P3T3rPan » Tue Jun 16, 2015 2:01 pm

Yup but that will depend on your building being as accurate as your cad drawing.
Most are not that accurate due to inexperience or poor work practises, limited tools or poor materials.
In the end it wont matter because copper is very forgiving and as I have already stated easy to "fudge" when joining to make up for small discretions.
Me, if I get it 4 degrees out on a job, I just anneal in the appropriate place and amount and push it back to right.
:scared-eek:
But I been doing this for a very long time :-B
Most tradies refer to the drawings as "The Comic" :laughing-rolling:
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Re: WTDist T500 Modification

Postby WTDist » Tue Jun 16, 2015 2:40 pm

Yup im all of those. limited tools, expirienct etc. as long as it is strong, works well and has no leaks ill be happy. i can clean up the extra solder at the end and make it look pretty :smile:
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Re: WTDist T500 Modification

Postby P3T3rPan » Tue Jun 16, 2015 4:30 pm

Best advice
Go slow and you can do anything
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Re: WTDist T500 Modification

Postby WTDist » Fri Jun 19, 2015 7:23 pm

Ok got going on my RC and drilled my holes just before and ill cut out the ends with snips later, if i don't drink to much red wine :)) :obscene-drinkingchug: :obscene-drinkingchug:

I marked them out better this time, wish i did this with my PC, could have had 7 inner tubes easy.
Punched holes where i marked them then pilot drilled then 1/2" drilled. I think they came up good :handgestures-thumbupleft:
Screwed my plate to the timber i cut it on this time so id didn't move. much better :handgestures-thumbupleft:
Took a bit to anneal this plate. Had 2 cracks at it 8-}

Marked it out. Made my dots 15mm away from center dot
2015-06-19 17.38.27.jpg

Holes cut and screwed to timber
2015-06-19 18.47.11.jpg
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Re: WTDist T500 Modification

Postby rumdidlydum » Fri Jun 19, 2015 7:34 pm

Coming together nicely wt. :handgestures-thumbupleft:
Have you tried using wood drill bits they do a much better job at cutting round holes unlike drill bits.
The only wood bit i have is 13mm i should get more.
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Re: WTDist T500 Modification

Postby WTDist » Fri Jun 19, 2015 7:43 pm

Na i haven't tried the wood bit for copper. I don't think the bits i have are that high in wood. Do they make them rounder?
I may have to re drill these out a bit as this bit is 12.5mm and my tubes are 12.7mm. Got this drill bit from my father in-law
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Re: WTDist T500 Modification

Postby rumdidlydum » Fri Jun 19, 2015 7:47 pm

WTDist wrote:Na i haven't tried the wood bit for copper. I don't think the bits i have are that high in wood. Do they make them rounder?
I may have to re drill these out a bit as this bit is 12.5mm and my tubes are 12.7mm. Got this drill bit from my father in-law

They come out perfectly round not like a drill bit that cuts nearly triangle holes :laughing-rolling: .
If you have a de buring tool it can clean up the edges and at the right angle will take a slither on the inside
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Re: WTDist T500 Modification

Postby WTDist » Wed Jun 24, 2015 1:03 pm

Had some setbacks with my RC. cleaned the joints well and soldered up one end really nice one night and then the other the second night but didn't re-clean the joint before i did the last end. Bad decision on my part as 2 inner pipes would not solder right (originally thought one). Ive had to pull apart and clean them up. i wiped the wet solder off best i could from the inner pipes scrubbed them good with steel wool and have had them soaking in citric acid ever since. I figure a little solder left on them wont be to bad, wiped flat as. Ill give them a light sand and clean again before i re attempt it.
Ill be MORE careful and OCD on the cleaning side of things from now on :angry-banghead:

after i soldered and before i ripped it apart and cleaned up: AKA - My Fuck Up
2015-06-23 09.01.57.jpg
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Re: WTDist T500 Modification

Postby WTDist » Wed Jun 24, 2015 11:37 pm

Ok so ill sum up tonights efforts...
:angry-banghead:
:handgestures-thumbdown:

Resoldered and repulled it appart to start again. 3rd times the charm. basically was going well untill the heat made one end give way as i was about to solder the other in place. had to walk away before i smashed something :angry-steamingears:
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Re: WTDist T500 Modification

Postby Geeps » Thu Jun 25, 2015 4:08 am

WTDist wrote:Ok so ill sum up tonights efforts...
:angry-banghead:
:handgestures-thumbdown:

Resoldered and repulled it appart to start again. 3rd times the charm. basically was going well untill the heat made one end give way as i was about to solder the other in place. had to walk away before i smashed something :angry-steamingears:



Unlucky there WTDist .

Next time you can wrap the finished end in a wet rag/

or put it in a container with an inch of water in it to

stop the finished end getting to hot and de-soldiering

while you do the other end. :handgestures-thumbupleft:
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Re: WTDist T500 Modification

Postby WTDist » Thu Jun 25, 2015 10:56 am

I actually did break something lol, accidentally. I solder on a pizza stone on a bench and broke it with my hammer. Should have known but i was distracted with my soldered joints falling apart 8-}

Thanks Geeps. Ill give the water a go. Should make things easier. How wet/cold does the rag have to be? soaked and freezer temps? or just soaked in normal temp?

Ill give it a go after the weekend. Going to have a break from it n go away for the weekend :-|
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Re: WTDist T500 Modification

Postby Geeps » Thu Jun 25, 2015 12:21 pm

Just soaked mate and listen to it sizzle :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Be sure to keep it wet.
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