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by db1979 » Fri Sep 29, 2017 5:20 pm
An ammeter would need to be in series yeah?
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db1979
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Currently having a makeover: 2" x 4 plate solid state bubbler (1" bubble caps, no sight glasses...maybe not for much longer!) on a bain-marie boiler.
by caspian » Mon Oct 02, 2017 2:54 pm
definitely, or the angry pixies will escape big time. think of an ammeter as a flow meter, it goes inline with the load, not across it like a voltmeter.
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by baders » Mon Dec 17, 2018 11:13 am
Hi all, this is my first post and in an old thread and all. I am just getting into distilling and have been fascinated by what I've learned so far here just by reading. I'm new to the forum but not electrical matters. I am an electrical engineer/licensed electrician/process control tech all rolled into one big ugly package. Having read this thread and others I just wanted to point out a few things that may just save some pain later. I do not mean this to be in any way condescending but I am somewhat alarmed by what I read.
1) It is illegal in all states for non licensed persons to do electrical work low voltage and up.
2) Statutory authorities are clamping down big time on the above. Heavy fines can result (or worse if you injure/kill someone).
3) If you're willing to take those risks then please please have your work checked by a licensed sparky.
4) Australian design rules are also being enforced far more than ever. This is a subject rarely mentioned or thought about. All electrical appliances in Australia are required to be approved.
One item I can pick on is this. SSR means Solid State Relay. It is a relay, a remote controlled switch in other words, and is either on or off just like the relays in your car. It is operated by another (lesser rated) switch. A PSR however is a different kettle of fish. It is a phase angle controller that controls output voltage and it itself is controlled by a potentiometer.
Sorry if I'm preaching to the already converted here but I have been reading this misconception in a few threads now. I'm hoping to get active here and be able to contribute to this great community.
Last edited by
baders on Mon Dec 17, 2018 11:14 am, edited 1 time in total.
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baders
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by Doubleuj » Mon Dec 17, 2018 12:05 pm
Thanks Baders, you are very correct that all electrical work should be done by a licensed electrician.
How about a welcome thread to say Gday and introduce yourself :handgestures-thumbupleft:
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by ruchita » Wed Mar 13, 2019 9:35 pm
Is this the information sheet that you got from RS? This is the thing that I get from them and furthermore from Farnell. It unmistakably shows the impartial associated with the unbiased terminal so are they providing an alternate information sheet with the gadget?
In spite of this purpose of issue, I concur that it will work no uncertainty the manner in which you appear and clearly it does, Yours works: hand gestures-thumbupleft:
So my fundamental issue is with a potential electrical breakdown of pot under pressure.
What's the issue? In the event that the pot protection separates between the wiper/tracks and the case, at that point the case may turn out to be live.
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by woodduck » Thu Mar 14, 2019 7:41 am
Hi Ruchita,
Thanks for your input mate. Not that I understood any of it as electrical stuff is well over my head :laughing-rolling:
It would be great if you could pop over to the welcome center and say hi and tell us a little about yourself.
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by B-Man » Sun Jul 25, 2021 10:13 pm
Looking to build my own controller
Few questions anyone recommend a decent PSR or SSR?
For a decent price.
What one would you reccomend.
Plan is to hard wire some iec c19 cords and have the elements wired with c20 sockets.
Ideally I'd like 2.5mm² cable but can't find anything in iec that's not ridiculously expensive.
My thought is having my 2400w element full power. Splitting my 3600w element into 2x 1800w elements and controlling one of them.
Will go an analoge display for voltage.
Was hoping to get a digital display for volts amps and watts. Guessing I'll need a 12v transformer too.
Is the anything that can calculate the watts from the 3 elements?
Also any pointers on where to buy the switches, light and large knob for the potentiometer.
I have an old control board but don't know the ratings on the switches or lights.
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by scythe » Sat Jul 31, 2021 9:22 am
Jaycar for ideas, then look at Electrical wholesalers that sell to the public.
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by B-Man » Thu Aug 12, 2021 3:49 pm
Can't find any on jaycar that are controlled by 500k ohms they seem to be 4-32v?
Can you make your own scr?
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by scythe » Tue Aug 17, 2021 9:01 am
From memory there are different types, some controlled by voltage and some by resistance.
Need to look for the correct type.
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by B-Man » Sat Nov 20, 2021 9:26 pm
Ok after speaking to my electrician mate 1.5mm cable can handle 3600w so ended up going the 15a 1.5mm iec cord. Will chop them down from 5m to hopefully under 3m .
Got 99% of my parts to get wired up just wondering what thermal paste compound you guys used for ssr to heatsink. Guessing any generic stuff from jaycar will work? I Will have the heatsink and 2 fans running.
Going for 12v fans as I had a few 80mm computer fans and going to put a 12v phone charger off the transformer too. Can't wait for it to be all setup and usable.
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by RC Al » Sun Nov 21, 2021 8:47 am
No only the highest grade, high silver content, $50 a tube overclockers stuff will do....
Lols, yes the cheap white stuff is fine
Less is more, your only trying to eliminate air gaps, not paint the mona lisa
Last edited by
RC Al on Sun Nov 21, 2021 8:50 am, edited 1 time in total.
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2" Potty
by B-Man » Sun Nov 21, 2021 9:13 am
Haha
I do have a tube of the computer stuff but didn't want to use it. Just didn't know how hot it got.
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