CyBaThUg wrote:Just file the earth down not the right thing to do but it's an easy fix may throw your safety switch now and then but no biggy
CyBaThUg wrote:Just file the earth down not the right thing to do but it's an easy fix may throw your safety switch now and then but no biggy
punchy21 wrote:CyBaThUg wrote:Just file the earth down not the right thing to do but it's an easy fix may throw your safety switch now and then but no biggy
If your lucky, a 10A outlet is not rated to carry 15A and could melt and start a fire... Also a 10A circuit is usually protected by a 16A circuit breaker, meaning it won't trip if there is nothing else running on the circuit and your still is drawing 15A... It's not worth the risk... :handgestures-thumbupleft:
bushbrew wrote:My solution to the 15A problem is to replace the 10A power point on the wall in the garage with a 20A (Clipsal 2015/20) power point :o then change the male plug on the 15A supply lead to my voltage controller & 3600W element, with a 20A three pin plug :D ( Clipsal 425HD) to fit the power point.The 20A power point feed comes from the switchboard through a 20A breaker & An earth leakage thingy,so I'm assuming the cable from the switchboard is rated for at least 20A & as I'm only drawing 15A max there shouldn't be a problem. ;-) I chose to go 20A to give me a bit of a safety margin.Would anybody care to comment on this arrangement?
bushbrew wrote:Hi 8-ball,thanks for the reply,no it's not a stand alone GPO but I know what else is on that circuit so wouldn't be using anything else while running it.My element is a 3600W & it's basically 2 separate elements in the one housing,so it's wired so I can switch one off once I'm up to temp & according to my voltage controller,I'm then only drawing 6A at 119v for the duration of the run,so I'm only drawing 15A for about 45min,,so what do you reckon.
Cheers
BB.
arjovenzia wrote:A 10 A circuit will happily supply 15, 20, 100A... its just a matter of how long for.
A dedicated 15A circuit will do so all day, @ full load. Theoreticially, fuse type depending, 10A could also blast 50A safe... for seconds. If you look at data sheets for heavy cables, they don't give 'Amp' ratings, but amperes vs temp rise, and safe temp rise vs ambient graphs, n let the engineers work out if it'll work safely.
In a nutshell, filing down a 15a plug to run ur stove, with a fridge, freezer n kettle off a 10 a cct, or ur plasma, hifi etc, n file down to fit an A/C, well, that's just stupid.
But if uve a dedicated 10 A feed to ur shed, n ur only running short beads with ur welder, maybe some lights n a radio, bust out ur file. Just don't run ur 2400w (10 a @240v) still at the same time ;-)
Play smart, don't get sloppy. Be happy (read, don't burn your house down). But youse blokes 'boil gasoline', you know the drill
Edit:
If your running a 3600w element, ur already drawing 15a (3600/240=15a). N that's not uncommon
8-ball wrote:well actually no, circuits and switch gear and expecialy plugs in aus are not rated to run at full load for hours if you are running 15amp with a 15amp plug and socket its not designed to be running for hours on end its designed for time on time off so you should go to a 20 amp because it will handle it,
arjovenzia wrote:What? where did you pull that one from mate? thats why its given the rating. thats what its designed to handle. a 15A cct will handle 15A @25 degrees forever. however, for saftey, you derate the fuse, so its the weakest link. a 15A wire, socket and fuse is not a good idea, as in a fault scenario, any one of those could fail. if its wire or socket, you have a fire. hence why the standard Australian mains circut is a nominal '10A', but has a socket rated to 15A (remember the conductors on a plug are the same, its just a keyed earth to differentiate), and usually 20A (2.5mm) wire.
I dont see how replacing the plug is any safer than paring down the earth... just lopping it off is absolutely retarded.
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