Zak Griffin wrote:Good stuff mate :handgestures-thumbupleft:
Why seven plates?
I've read mostly for whisky will use 5 and for nutrals 6 or more and the higher the better, please correct me if it's a waste of time.
And if you've got access to a fully stainless pressure gauge and relief, there's no reason not to I suppose. Plenty of guys run a LOT bigger stills without a pressure gauge though!
rumdidlydum wrote:Sounds like a solid set off plans, can't wait for the build log. :handgestures-thumbupleft:
Just a couple of things to think about,
1- The parrot body you will want 1inch as you have indicated, but it's un necessary for the whole tube to be of that size from the pc condenser to the parrot, Most stick with 1/2inch or 3/4 as its cheaper. Also it helps if you can remove the parrot from the pc.
Ok cool so reduce to 1" straight after the condensor? I was planning on keeping the parrot modular as well as the piece before it so I could remove a section depending on how many plates installed.
2- What materials are you constructing from? Copper, Stainless or a hybrid of the two
It will be all copper after the boiler, I'm pretty handy and feel the can work with the copper but can't weld sadly. ( and I do think the polished copper looks sexy)
3- The sections you have modular will work great as you can add or remove plates to try different things. For seven plates and a packed section you must have a fairly heigh distilling area :think: You could drop the one plate and make the last two modular :-B
The seven plates was an idea I copied from another still build on here to give more options with plates being able to use any amount from 1-7 without having them all modular. I will probably need to mod the ceiling where the still will be if I kept the 150 riser and the single bubble plate as it will only just clear the ceiling.
4- On you RC how many and what size tubes are you going to construct from? There have been some great R and D on RC's in the past year. Defiantly worth reading up on before you decide which way you want to go.
Which section is that in I'm definitely keen to read up on the condensers, I was hoping for some advice on size and amount of pipes inside condensor as I see people using all different sizes and amounts but have no idea which way to go.
5- The thermometer is good boiler accessory, as for the relive valve and gauge it's not worth the hassle due to there should be no pressure build up that would even warrant the need.
The cost of the relief valve that needs to be made from the right materials, the gauge will also need to probably range from 0 to 1.5psi and also be constructed from the right materials.
Yes by design the bubbler will have a small amount of back pressure but don't get this confused with a build up of pressure.
Also the last thing you want is a failed or leaking relief valve while you are doing a run.....
I will probably dump the relief valve and pressure gauge.
Anyway these are my thoughts you can mull over and refine you rig. Enjoy the build :O)
Don't forget plenty of pic's on you build page :D
Doubleuj wrote:Good stuff mate. Why the 3 sight glasses on the boiler? Just to see if you have liquid left? If so, simple maths does the same (ie 45L charge at roughly 10% abv will leave 40.5l of Dunder)
warramungas wrote:Hope you've got a high ceiling!
Doubleuj wrote:So what about the design on the back of that page :laughing-rolling:
Zak Griffin wrote:My plate modules are 130mm tall, which is pretty standard...
The height of the spacer on the keg isn't important, it doesn't really need to be there at all... stick with 500mm for the packed section :handgestures-thumbupleft:
Zak Griffin wrote:To elaborate, people have tested plate spacing (in the early days of hobby bubblers) and 100-150% of column diameter between plates was worked out as a pretty good rule of thumb...
With 2" sightglasses, if you have 180mm module and you're not going to see much unless you sit the SG at the bottom of the module.
Are you still thinking seven plates?
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