Aussiedistiller, Home Distilling, Moonshine, Home Brew

First off thanks to SBB for the original design and to Jeh for resurrecting it and to MacStill (5 Star for the fittings)
I have been busy the last few days building my new pot still, parrot and voltage controller.
Have just done a leak test and it all looks good, just wondering if I add a K type thermocouple probe now (have 3-4 in garage) or just learn to run it by touch, smell and feel.
Anyway have added a couple of changes to the original design after a bit of reading and research, one being the crimping of the inner tube on the Liebig to stop laminar
flow and reducing down to a 10mm outflow pipe. The other is putting a Tri-union to adjust the angle on the condenser which really works for me given the space I am working with. I also choose to go with the push on fittings on the condenser to utilise my existing T500 hoses.
Still have some 2" copper pipe left over, so am looking to maybe extend the column on my T500 reflux to try and get to the magic 96% ABV or open to suggestions.

Excellent rig Mcatac, wish i'd crimped the inner tube now :angry-banghead: , oh well i'll do it on the next one. What are you building next? Keep up the good work :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Thanks mate, not quite sure maybe some sort of hybrid or was thinking of maybe making a shotgun to interchange with the Liebig to cut down stripping runs?
Better decide soon though because the wife is eyeing up the copper for BBQ flares

Nice work how did you crimp the pipe on the condenser?

I just used a pair of vise grips, that way all were crimped to the same depth. I checked on a scrap bit first that the 25mm would still fit over the inner. Think I went about 40-50mm centers 90° but what ever works. Seems to work alright, as even on full power on the T500 boiler I get a steady toothpick sized stream.

Mcatac wrote:I just used a pair of vise grips, that way all were crimped to the same depth. I checked on a scrap bit first that the 25mm would still fit over the inner. Think I went about 40-50mm centers 90° but what ever works. Seems to work alright, as even on full power on the T500 boiler I get a steady toothpick sized stream.

How long at an estimate does it take to strip a wash? Looking at building something similar, would like to strip run fast..

Not sure how the design of the product condenser changes the speed of the boil? :think:

Were the pot meets the boiler did you buy a ready made flange? If so were do you buy them? (I see your using a triclamp)

You want one of these - http://www.5stardistilling.net/t500-adapter/

It says they are out of stock, but give Mac a hoy through the webstore and I'm sure he'll sort you out :handgestures-thumbupleft:

That goes onto the boiler I thought? Was wondering what he did for a flange on end of still (or did he solder one of them to the still head also) if he made it or bought something ready made

I'd guess he's used an easy flange. Have a search and you'll find heaps of threads on how to make one :handgestures-thumbupleft:

What does the pelican design do that other pot still designs don't?

Cheers,
Prof. Green.

Could be way off the mark but I think they use this design so the still is balanced on the thin t500 top to even out balance? the 2 inch pipe heading to the left balances the weight of the condenser on the right?

bluc wrote:That goes onto the boiler I thought? Was wondering what he did for a flange on end of still (or did he solder one of them to the still head also) if he made it or bought something ready made

Check the 3rd pic, its an SS ferrule soldered into a 45˚ coupling... :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Sorry been flying back to work.
All adaptors were from Mac.I used one of the T500 adapters on top of the boiler. The end of the still has a stainless steel tri-clamp ferrule into a 50mm 45° bend same at the top. The design is SBB's and it seems to do 2 things, firstly yes it keeps the center of gravity above the center of the boiler, gives a bit of passive reflux and looks kind of cool.
Haven't done a full boiler run yet , only a couple of cleaning runs, but going off those I would say 2-2.5l per hour.
Will have a couple of 25l TPWs to run when I get home and will post.

The design of the condenser just induces turbulent flow into the vapour to stop a hot core of vapour just passing through the middle. This in theory means in will have more cooling power and use less water. This may mean that I can run the element at full power throughout the run. Will have to do some experiments and test 1 run at full noise and 1 controlling the element power.

So it's partly functional, partly practical and partly aesthetic.

Thanks,
Prof. Green.

That's about the size of it Professor Green. Thinking about it this morning I may have been a bit light on my estimated stripping rates and put up what would be the spirit run. Looking at SBBs original post http://aussiedistiller.com.au/viewtopic ... it=pelican a stripping run should get 4+ p/h. Will have a play in 2 weeks when I get home.

Thanks for the info looking at maybe doing the same build in a few weeks thanks for the info. By the way what size is your condenser? I read a post by macstill he said he made his 3/4 inside inch pipe at 700mm long I will probably follow his advice..

Mcatac wrote:I also choose to go with the push on fittings on the condenser to utilise my existing T500 hoses.

I wish to do the same with my build. I noticed the T500 reflux coil is 1/4" and the hoses go over that. My Shotgun RC and PC are going to have 1/2" inlet/outlet on them (incase i ever want to run outside) but I am wondering if there is a 1/2" to 1/4" reducer out there. I got most of my fittings from trade-link but they don't work with 1/4" and told me to try a air-con place.

Can i ask where you got your 1/4" tube and fittings from and if you have seen a 1/2' to 1/4" reducer? When i finish my mod i still want to run it on the bench with the kitchen tao and neddle valve thing. Looks like your just down the road at Beenleigh. Not to far from me
Cheers
WTD